Hi Guys, when I am drift fishing, I usually use a float. When I try to bottom bounce, I find I get snagged up quite often. What advice do you have so I can get better at bottom bouncing?
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Bottom Bouncing
Started by Spinninreel, Nov 10 2011 11:05 PM
10 replies to this topic
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#2
Float down
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Perch
Posted 10 November 2011 - 11:13 PM
Read the topic "split shot setup" and all your questions will be answered 
#3
Float_On
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Crappie
Posted 10 November 2011 - 11:40 PM
Talk to Blair!!
"smiles"
"smiles"
#4
Guest_Blair_*
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Posted 10 November 2011 - 11:46 PM
Hi Guys, when I am drift fishing, I usually use a float. When I try to bottom bounce, I find I get snagged up quite often. What advice do you have so I can get better at bottom bouncing?
Bottom Bouncing or Drift Fishing as it is known, is my most USED METHOD of fishing.
I have been doing it in varies applications for almost 30 years now.
This SPRING I will also finally add to my arsenal: FLY FISHING & CENTRE PINNING (What took so long? *SMILES*)
As in any technique, it takes a lot of practice to become good at.
Probably the MOST FRUSTRATING aspect is the AMOUNT of SNAGS.
I would highly recommend starting out in WELL KNOWN pools that have limited SNAGS, so that you dont get turned off.
- and if your a "millionaire" use FLORO *SMILES* (I use mono)
I do not know EVERYTHING (Far... Far .. From it) but what I have learned over the years (Personal Experience, Reading, Seeing others is this:
FLY FISHING: the MOST EFFECTIVE top water presentation.
CENTRE PINNING: the MOST EFFECTIVE way to cover water and give Natural Presentation (mid to bottom)
BOTTOM BOUNCING (Drift Fishing) the MOST EFFECTIVE way to make a presentation on the Bottom
Here are some good read & articles:
Trout Fishing Tips - Bottom Bouncing Rivers
Anyone who is interested in catching trout consistently needs to know about a trout fishing technique that is known as "bottom bouncing rivers" and in this article I will outline how this technique works and how it can help you catch more trout. More than twenty years ago I was taught this technique in Central Pennsylvania by a man who was renowned throughout the area for catching trophy sized trout out of heavily fished rivers using a technique he liked to call "bottom bouncing".
I have been using the technique ever since, honing my skills as the years have passed, and catching trout all throughout the United States. Bottom bouncing rivers has become my "go to" trout fishing technique and I have no doubt that the trout fishing tips contained in this article will help you to become a much more effective trout fisherman.
Let's begin with the type of rivers that are best for this particular trout fishing technique. Small to medium sized rivers are the perfect size for bottom bouncing, the kind of rivers that can be wade fished effectively. Rivers that contain runs, deep pools, many bends and riffles that are shallow enough to wade across safely are normally the type of rivers that I look for when I want to do some bottom bouncing.
The idea behind "bottom bouncing" is to have your bait bounce (or roll) along the bottom of the river as it is carried naturally with the current of said river. In almost all cases the bail on your spinning reel is closed to ensure that your line is completely taught as it flows. This way a when a trout bites your bait it can be easily detected. When you first start using the "bottom bouncing" technique the bottom of the river may feel like a bite, but with practice you quickly learn to distinguish between the bottom and a bite from a hungry trout.
I have always found live bait to be the most effective bait to use when you are bottom bouncing rivers and the most readily available and easy to carry live bait is the live worm. Live worms have long been known as an effective fishing bait and this fact is certainly true when it comes to trout fishing. Rigging a live worm onto a set of gang hooks so that the worm is presented in an outstretched and natural manner, and then "bottom bouncing" that worm along the bottom of a river is one of the best trout fishing tips that you will ever receive.
A key to bottom bouncing rivers is to have patience. Since you are literally letting your bait bounce along the bottom of the river, getting snagged in inevitable. As a matter of fact on some days getting snagged is as common as getting a bite so you have to be prepared for this fact. Once you get the weight right for the current flow and depth of the river that you are fishing, getting "hung up" isn't nearly as common, but getting the perfect amount of weight can only be determined through trial and error. In other words, if getting "snagged" is something that you hate dealing with, this particular trout fishing technique may not be for you.
The bottom line is that when it comes to trout fishing tips, bottom bouncing rivers is a technique that should be added to every serious trout fisherman's repertoire. The technique has helped me catch a ton of trout over the years and I know it will do the same for you.
Posted by JRWFishing at 6:04 AM
Bottom Bouncing And
Bar Fishing For Chinook and Sockeye
Thursday, November 10th 2011.
Bottom bouncing and bar fishing for Chinook and Sockeye salmon has become far and away the most prominent method of fishing in recent summer runs for sports fishermen. Gear used for bottom bouncing in rivers such as the Columbia or Fraser, is unlike any other and very productive. The only necessity to have a good day fishing Sockeye using this method, is making sure they will be there in moderate numbers allowing even beginners, to experience results!
Lets have a look at some of the standard stuff now. A 1O.6 ft graphite rod that is used for salmon and levelwind reel is a typical river set up and will be perfect. If you are new to bottom bouncing and don't have funds to go buy anything right away, a medium action spinnig rod and reel in the 8 to 9ft range can get you started too. The terminal tackle such as weights, line swivels and more also make all the difference and we'll have a look at that next.
Heres a very "raw" idea of the ways I like to hook up an easy, non-bulky rig for my bottom bouncing tackle;
A large river system plus a large fish like a King salmon equals allot of stress on your gear. This all equates to have a line that has a strong enough test as to not snap yet not be too much to damage lost fish or equipment. My modo to buying anything (my wife hates it) is "you always get what you pay for!" This modo has cost me allot of money but everything I buy lasts me!! When it comes to fishing line this modo holds true - buy quality or you will be sorry. A 15lb to 30lb test is perfect for your mainline and a capacity of 150 to 225yds is good, especially if you hook a big Chinook! I like the super lines such as Berkleys Fire-Line as the actual diameter of the line is so thin, that you can beef up your test a bit, it doesn't have memory like monofilament and it's got much more feeling transmitting which results in more hook sets. Berkley has won awards for it's new "Fireline - Crystal" which integrates the quality of superline of a braided nature and clerity of a monofilament line, making for the most versatile and powerful superline available.
The next thing you'll need is a basic swivel, size 10 or 8 will work. I like to have a ball chain swivel connected to my leader from my main line. Before I attatch my ball chain though I put a bead that is bigger than the eye of the Bouncing Betty weight that will slide up and down the line freely above the swivel. The ball chain swivel acts as a guard from the bouncing betty weight, that can damage the mainline, put nicks in it and lead to a lost fish or leader setup. The bead above the swivel acts as a bearing and allows the bouncing betty weight to move around and not get hung up on the swivel as it's moving in the water. This setup is my favorite and is one of many ways to rig up your salmon gear.
From left to right: ball chain swivels (my fav), standard barrel swivel, ball bearing swivels that are very strong and fantastic for stealthy rigs (especially when steelheading), and another 3 way swivel great for bar fishing that can all be used.
Here is an example of the types of beads (similar to a jensen egg) that I'll use:
There are several different types of weights on the market that work well while bottom bouncing and bar fishing for Chinook and Sockeye salmon. First is standard pencil lead, its cheap and versatile, although can cause problems. Pencil lead is commonly bought in coils. The advantage to pencil lead is how it's bought, as you can cut off exactly how much weight you want to use. The disadvantage of it is that if you don't know how much weight to cut off, you won't get the depth or feel that you need, not ot mention it's made of lead so it's toxic and not good for the environment. Pencil lead is also cumbersome and is not as popular as a bouncing betty weight ball - I wouldn't recommend them for this specific fishing technique.
Pencil Lead:
Another weight used while bottom bouncing is called a slinky weight. A good way to describe this is; a cord with lead or steel split-shot pushed inside while the ends are heated shut and a snapswivel is attatched at the end so you can hook it up to another swivel or your line. The advantage to a slinky weight is that they are less likely to get snagged because they are less likely to hang up unlike other weights. A disadvantage to them is they don't have as much bottom "feel" or transmission as say, a ball weight.Slinky Weight Kit:
After we have our rod, reel, mainline and swivel picked out the next thing we need to discover is how to choose a good leader for the system we're fishinig. The leader material should be one or two line "ratings" less than your mainline, 12 or 15lb test is usually good for your blueback (Sockeye), but for beginners or even advanced anglers, you may want to use a heavier test like a 25lber in case you get into a rockin' Springer.Remember how I said you get what you pay for? Well a good abrasian resistant, stiff mono that is of good quality, will find you better landing chances. With that, the next tip I give you is arguably one of the most contraversial peices of advice out there! Ready? You want Sockey and Sping salmon? Use a 15 FOOT leader!! Yup 15 feet! This is considered "cheating" by allot of anglers or conservationists and is deadly effective, but I'm telling you the secret to catching lots of fish here right? Some will call it flossing or snagging, but above all It's one true way to get an unbelievable amount of salmon in the big coastal river systems.
Don't piss your fellow anglers off!! WATCH YOUR LINE! Read this!
Try and remember that casting a leader that is 15 feet long on a big river can be difficult, challenging and dangerous. Hooks are floating under the water and cannot be seen! If you have a couple "beaks" (slang for an angler with no etiquette and is only interested in his own environment or gear.), that are way out in the water infront of everyone elses drift, you have to reel in sooner so you don't hook them. Also always be aware of your back-cast and actual cast! Most fishermen who are bottom bouncing have laser sharp hooks that will cut through your leg or head with ease. One more thing to remember; while landing a big King long leaders can prove to be even more of a task as your leader is only able to reel up as far as your weight and rod tip will allow, or in other words, once your weight hits your rod tip you still have a fifteen foot leader with a fish on the end that you have to land somehow!Common "lures" if that's what you want to call it - considering salmon are generally territorial and not biteing, but rather getting snagged - will consist of either Spin 'n' glows, corkies and/or yarn. Color is not very important and I have always had great success with all colors although purple or bright yellow (chartreuse) is my most successful color. Size 12 or 14 is common for spin 'n' glo's and corkies, while a "tuft" of wool that is about as long as two digits of your finger long will work.
Last on the list is the hook. Standard steelhead style hooks are perfect, size 1 to 3/0 work fine. Remember, as with line, you get what you pay for. Buy quality hooks, its worth it.
Finally, now that we have our bottom bouncing set up all ready, how do we fish it? Well it is not all too difficult but will require some practice to fully master. Basically you will want to make your cast slightly up stream, then immediately pick up your slack line, but do not retrieve. Allow your gear to bump along the river bottom.
While your gear is travelling along the river bottom, follow its direction with your rod tip and hold your rod at about 45 degrees up from the horizon. After you have gone about 25 yards, then retrieve and repeat. When you are first getting started don't worry too much about feeling the bite or take of the fish. It is very subtle and for the most part this will take care of itself as the rod will just bend over and get heavy and the fish is on!
Here's a tip; as your line starts to flow past you feed additional line out to extend your drift, but be sure to keep enough tension on your line incase you get a hit.
Why would anyone want to bottom bounce for walleyes?
If you want to spend more time trolling for walleye and at the same time learn what is at the bottom of the lakes you spend so much time on then bottom bouncing is the key.
Here are some of the benefits of bottom bouncing.
- Reduces your time in locating walleye.
- Makes you a better fisherperson.
- You become more informed about walleye habits.
- Trolling covers large areas in a minimal amount of time. You find them, they don't find you.
- Once your prey has been found you can spend all your effort at that depth and structure.
I recommend a 6 to 7ft. medium, heavy bait casting rod and a medium sized bait casting reel with 100 yards of twelve pound test line. I would also recommend a fish finder and an electric trolling motor.
What does a bottom bouncer rig look like?
The bottom bouncer is shaped like a 7 with a weight on the vertical "leg" about halfway up. This leg is 12 in. long and keeps your trolled rig six to 12 inches off the bottom.
How do you troll with a bottom bouncer?
In order to stay on the bottom you'll need 1oz. of weight for every 10ft. and you're trolling speed will be 1/2 to 3 mph.
Tip:
You can make a bottom bouncer from a clothes hanger and a rubber core sinker.
DRIFT FISHING TECHNIQUES - submitted by Luhr Jensen
Drift fishing is easy, fun and effective. The technique has gained popularity over the years as more and more streams across the country are supporting trout, steelhead and salmon runs. Whether a beginner or a more experienced angler, this Luhr Jensen Tech Report can help you become even more successful using this method of fishing. Typical drift fishing waters consist of a series of pools and rapids, with the pools (drifts) holding feeding, resting or migrating fish. Drift lures fished through these pool areas, with the drift fishing technique, will often produce excellent results.
The basic drift fishing technique consists of casting across and slightly upstream, and then allowing your drift bobber and accompanying sinker to drift naturally downstream in the current, the sinker gently bouncing along the bottom. When your lure has drifted back near the bank, it is reeled in and another cast and drift made.
Buoyant drift bobbers simulate fish egg clusters, shrimp or other natural baits. Their success is attributed to color, action and buoyancy as they are drifted naturally along the bottom through fish-holding water. (The various drift bobbers are listed separately on the following pages along with a description and fishing application.)
There are scores of ways to add weight ahead of a drift bobber. Pencil lead, either solid or hollow core, is the most popular and has proved both economical and easy to use.
Solid pencil lead is best fastened to your line using a Lead Cinch which consists of a three-way swivel and a length of surgical tubing. Your main line is tied to one end of the swivel, leader and bobber to the other end and a section of pencil lead inserted into the Lead Cinch. If the lead becomes snagged, it will pull away from the tubing and your drift bobber and Lead Cinch can be retrieved.
Hollow pencil lead is best fastened by crimping it to a short leader dropped from a barrel swivel as shown in the illustrations. If this lead becomes snagged, a sharp pull will free the lead from the dropper leader and your drift bobber, leader and swivel can be reclaimed.
Pencil lead comes in coils or long sections so you can cut off the desired amount. Most lead available through sport shops comes in diameters of 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 inch, with 3/16 the most popular size for average fishing conditions and stream flows.
In addition to pencil leads, an unusual drift sinker is available from Luhr Jensen. The Bouncing Betty® snagless sinker, because of its spherical shape and size, is much less likely to hang up than convention pencil leads . . . although it still won't guarantee that your hook won't snag! (rig like pencil lead)
Due to its mass, the Bouncing Betty® is best used in slow or shallow water, where conventional-weight rigging makes drifting difficult or impossible. It will produce a smooth, long, snag-free drift. Its shape works in combination with slower currents to be pushed gently downstream, avoiding most rocks and snags. Also, the Bouncing Betty® makes long casts easier and it's non-toxic.
One of the big tricks to successful drift fishing is to select just the right amount of weight for the water you are fishing. A weight that's too heavy will snag easily while one that's too light will not keep your drift bobber near the bottom where the fish are. The ideal weight is one that results in a tap-tap-skip action as it makes regular contact with the bottom and then rises a bit before hitting again. Experienced drift anglers usually begin working an unknown drift with a 2 1/2 to 3 inch piece of pencil lead and then, after making a drift or two, shorten it until the drift feels just right with that tap-tap-skip action.
LEAD TIP:
Your pencil lead should always hang straight, as a bent or crooked piece of lead will often result in twisting or tangling of your line.
What is drift fishing?
(pIcture courtesy of Ben Sobel)
Drift fishing is the most flexible method of fishing for steelhead, but one of the toughest to master. You must have the right equipment, be able to read fish holding water, detect the bite lightest of bites and set the hook before the fish spits out the bait.
Bouncing a piece of lead (slinky or pencil lead) along the bottom of a stream and then detecting the difference between a fish bite and the bottom. Seem simple enough? Its not when you didn't get a bite all day or did you?
Rods
Fishing poles needs to be sensitive enough to feel every grain of sand, yet strong enough to set the hook with 40 yards of line across the current. This is the most important piece of the of equipment you will buy and the most expensive (besides a boat).
Choosing a rod
1. Type of fishing (drift fishing?, plunking?, float fishing?, noodling?, spin fishing?, plugging?)
2. Size of lure to be cast (heavy lead?, ultra light tackle?)
3. Type of reel to be placed on rod (spinning?, bait casting?, center pin?)...this will determine the handle and guides
4. composition of rod (graphite density?, fiberglass?.......this will determine the sensitivity of the rod)
5. Action of the rod ( Fast, moderate, slow)......this is the bend in the rod
6. Size of line (2#,6#,30# test?)
7. length of rod (casting from the beach?, boat fishing?, lots of brush fishing?)..........this will determine balance combined with reel
8. Warranty (its not uncommon to break a expensive rod!!)
Reels
Reels are a very important part of the puzzle. Your reel should be matched to the pole you will be using.
Most common reels use for steelhead drift fishing are bait casting reels (also called level winds). It takes a little getting use to casting a level wind, but once mastered it provides the best form of control for drift fishing. It also allows you to free spool under control, which increases the time your lure spends in the strike zone. I personally recommend Shimano, Ambassaduer and old Pflueger Supreme bait casting reels.
Spinning reels can be used, but are very awkward in all aspects of drift fishing except casting light lures.
Center pin reels are used primarily in Canada for float fishing. These reels are single action and your palm is used as the drag system.
Choosing a reel:
1. style of fishing
2. amount of line
3. type of line (monofilament, braided)......braided lines can cut into the metal of a reel (newer reels are using titanium for the new lines).
4. manufacturer........durablitality (buy a quality reel .... it will be tested by big fish)
5. drag system
6. free spool ability
7. antibacklash control
Line
The line you use should match the rod, reel and the conditions you will be fishing. The clearer the water the lighter the line you should use. Michigan steelheaders use line as light as 2 lb test. I commonly use twenty pound line because the rivers I fish are colored, brushy and full of rocks. Cowlitz anglers commonly use 8-10 line and 4 ft leaders while back trolling thumbnail sized cluster eggs.
Lures
This is were the art of steelhead fishing comes into play. Your bait should match the conditions you are fishing. Can the fish see the lure?, Will it spook the fish?, What color do I need to use? Should I use bait?
Common lures are the Corkies, spin & glow's, cheaters, okies, or something that imitates these standards. Lures come in the colors of the rainbow and every fisherman has their favorite color. They also come with various wiggles and wobbles. Size is also a consideration for your lure. Once you understand the special features you want from a lure, you can match your conditions. If you can't find a commercial lure to match your needs, you can custom paint lures to meet them.
Bait
A steelhead has a excellent sense of smell. When the water is so stained you can't see in two inches into the water, the steelhead can find your bait by movement and smell. Common baits are sand shrimp, eggs, night crawlers and sea shrimp.
Swivels
Barrel Swivels are used to attach a lighter leader to a heavier main line. This allows you to quickly adjust your rig to water conditions & minimize mainline loss to snags.
Hooks
Your hooks should match the type of lure and bait your using. They should always be sharp for easy penetration. Hooks need to be strong enough to hold a running fish without bending out, and point rollovers from rock encounters. Some areas require barbless single hooks (watch your regulations). You have a better chance of getting a solid fish hookup if you are using double hooks that are pointing in opposite directions. You should check to see if your hooks are sharp whenever your bait hangs up. Carry a point file with you to freshen up the point.
Lead
Let me start by saying there are numerous ways of hooking up your lead for steelhead fishing. While fishing over the years I have snagged out of the river just about every possible way to rig gear. To help prevent line twists and bottom hang ups. Make sure the lead is straight or it will spin in the current. If you don't have a plunking sinker with you on the river, take your pencil lead and bend it into a C shape. So keep it straight your not plunking your drift fishing.
Pencil lead is the most common and economical type of lead used for drift fishing. Pencil lead comes in various diameters 1/8, 3/16 , 1/4 inch. There are times when I would use 1/2 if they made it. Pencil lead also comes in hollow core and solid. Depending on the way your rigging your lead set up will determine the type of pencil lead you should buy.
Another type of lead is called a slinky. A slinky is a bunch of split shot weights incased in a piece of parachute cord. This allows the lead to bend around rocks with out getting hung up quite as often. A slinky doesn't send back as crisp of a bottom feel as straight lead because of the flexibility of the cord. You also can't adjust the size of the slinky with your pliers if you have to much weight. If you want a slinky with good bottom feel make them out of surgical tubing filled with lead shot.
Stationary leads are used to get baits down quickly in fast current.
A sliding lead set up has many advantages over stationary lead while drift fishing. It makes bite detection easier to detect. Longer time for the fisherman to react to the strike. A sliding lead takes slack out of line by its very nature. . A tight line keeps the hook points stuck in fishes mouth until you strike (not embedded until hook set). A stationary lead can introduce slack between the lead and fish when a fish strikes, causing you not to feel the strike.
Leaders
Leaders should be tied at home and stored in a case (Pip's Leader dispenser). Your leaders should be a little lighter test than your mainline. You can use the same leader strength as your mainline, but risk breaking off your main line close to your pole (ending your day). You should check for rough spots in your line often, since it is in, on, and around rocks constantly. If you have a rough spot change your leader immediately!!!! Your leader should never be shorter than twelve inches in length and preferably 16-18 inches long. Cowlitz river anglers use a 4 ft leader while back drifting straight eggs.
Presentation
Casts are made slightly upstream and allowed to bounce along the bottom to the tail out of the hole. When you feel the lure stop and the fish pick up the lure..... set the hook!!
Fall Drift Fishing: The Ultimate Fishing Technique
There is absolutely no better time of the year for drift fishing than the months of October and November for many species of freshwater fish such as small mouth bass, many species of trout, and even walleye. In small to medium sized rivers where "drift fishing" is the most effective, the fall offers some of the best fishing that can be experienced all year long. In this article I will draw upon my twenty five years of experience with fall drift fishing to outline why "drift fishing" is the ultimate technique to use when fishing for any of the aforementioned species of fish.
Let's begin with the aspect that many anglers tend to overlook which is the number of fishermen that you see on the river during the fall months. As a general rule you see many less fishermen on the river during the fall fishing season. This means that the fish experience much less fishing pressure at this time of the year than they do during the spring and summer seasons, which is a good thing for fisherman. The bottom line is that the less fishing pressure that the fish that you are attempting to catch receive, the more likely those fish are to bite whatever it is that you are offering them.
Next you have your surroundings. While "drift fishing" at any time of the year gives you the ability to be ensconced in nature while you are doing something that you enjoy (which this is a good thing), in most area's the months of October and November offer some of the best scenery that nature has to offer. Although the scenery has no impact on your ability to catch fish it is nonetheless a feature of fall drift fishing and does wonders for a fisherman's mental attitude in many cases.
Now, how about the various techniques that can be used when drift fishing and the technique that is the fishing technique to use when drift fishing during the fall of the year. Obviously, many baits, lures, and/or flies can be used successfully when drift fishing in the fall but the ultimate fishing technique to use has to be drift fishing with a live worm. I have been using this very technique with great success for more than twenty years and it has outperformed the other techniques by a rate of two to one.
The key to using this drifting technique is to rig your worm in a natural and realistic manner and to allow that worm to flow naturally with the current of the river that you are fishing. Weight is added and/or removed from you line by using split shot sinkers, with the ultimate goal being to add the perfect amount of weight so that your worm bounces or "ticks" along the bottom as it drifts with the current.
The bottom line is that fall drift fishing is incredibly productive and "drifting" a live worm is the ultimate fishing technique to use when you are on the water during the months of October and/or November.
__________________________________________
DEEP WATER BOTTOM BOUNCING VIDEO
http://www.thundermi...ig-trout</span>
Bottom Bouncer Rig (Video Included)
http://www.myoutdoor...included</span>
#5
georgianbaydrifter
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Smallmouth Bass
Posted 11 November 2011 - 12:06 AM
nice artical and an informative read allthough i think its geared more to westcoast apps. you like fishing bottom fishing too? one of my favs allthough hard to find water that isn't filled with lugans. personally i like to fish a quater oz with the hook set up like a drop shot rig.
#6
Guest_Blair_*
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Posted 11 November 2011 - 12:47 AM
nice artical and an informative read allthough i think its geared more to westcoast apps. you like fishing bottom fishing too? one of my favs allthough hard to find water that isn't filled with lugans. personally i like to fish a quater oz with the hook set up like a drop shot rig.
Absolutely!
I even keep my setups more simplistic.
literally just using a traditional split shot setup or Jig head (as the weight).
You get so used to the Bottom Bounce - feel of line/bait going over the rocks vs a strike ... becomes second nature.
Most of the info posted, is from OUT WEST sources ... simply because here in Ontario the CENTRE PINNING has dominated the market. (Respectfully so)
Many people think I come from out West because I Bottom Bounce/Drift Fish, but I was born in Guelph.
Did spend ten years in Calgary & Vancouver.
First place on BIG WATER I started to "Bottom Bounce/Drift Fish" was down in NIAGARA.
Back then (30 years ago) EVERYONE used the technique with Egg Sinkers.
Since then ... Pencil Weights and many more subtle applications have been added.
Lots of guys will make their own weights (Using Tubing etc) and come up with individual set ups (Just like FLY MAKING)
What ever method, they all have varing degress of success.
#7
Spinninreel
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Piscicapturist
Posted 11 November 2011 - 01:20 AM
So do you use a pencil weight with a barrel swivel and a 18" to 24" leader?Absolutely!
I even keep my setups more simplistic.
literally just using a traditional split shot setup or Jig head (as the weight).
You get so used to the Bottom Bounce - feel of line/bait going over the rocks vs a strike ... becomes second nature.
Most of the info posted, is from OUT WEST sources ... simply because here in Ontario the CENTRE PINNING has dominated the market. (Respectfully so)
Many people think I come from out West because I Bottom Bounce/Drift Fish, but I was born in Guelph.
Did spend ten years in Calgary & Vancouver.
First place on BIG WATER I started to "Bottom Bounce/Drift Fish" was down in NIAGARA.
Back then (30 years ago) EVERYONE used the technique with Egg Sinkers.
Since then ... Pencil Weights and many more subtle applications have been added.
Lots of guys will make their own weights (Using Tubing etc) and come up with individual set ups (Just like FLY MAKING)
What ever method, they all have varing degress of success.
#8
georgianbaydrifter
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Smallmouth Bass
Posted 11 November 2011 - 09:13 AM
i have never fished the niagara but really want to hit it one day.... i hear you can hit fish rip jigging power minnows out there that would be a new experience and would like to try it someday.
#9
Guest_Blair_*
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Posted 11 November 2011 - 10:24 AM
So do you use a pencil weight with a barrel swivel and a 18" to 24" leader?
Only on the Niagara (Glen) or Detroit River.
Big, Deep ... strong Currents.
Everywhere else, just egg sinkers (3 way swivel)
* I make my own "pencil style weights" with smaller egg sinkers inside of Clear Tubing (Aquarium)
Much CHEAPER! the friggin stores sell pencil weights for like $5-6 dollars for only 1-2.
I can make 10-20 for that!
*SMILES*
UPDATE:
I think "Italo" is paying attention to this thread
lol
His NEXT SHOW is all about "DRIFT FISHING"
Episode 04: Drifting for Steelhead
Mon Nov 14 11
13:00
Wed Nov 16 11
15:00
Sat Nov 19 11
07:00
http://www.canadian-sportfishing.com/Default.aspx
#10
Spinninreel
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Piscicapturist
Posted 11 November 2011 - 08:36 PM
Only on the Niagara (Glen) or Detroit River.
Big, Deep ... strong Currents.
Everywhere else, just egg sinkers (3 way swivel)
* I make my own "pencil style weights" with smaller egg sinkers inside of Clear Tubing (Aquarium)
Much CHEAPER! the friggin stores sell pencil weights for like $5-6 dollars for only 1-2.
I can make 10-20 for that!
*SMILES*
UPDATE:
I think "Italo" is paying attention to this thread
lol
His NEXT SHOW is all about "DRIFT FISHING"
Episode 04: Drifting for Steelhead
Mon Nov 14 11
13:00
Wed Nov 16 11
15:00
Sat Nov 19 11
07:00
http://www.canadian-sportfishing.com/Default.aspx
Thanks Blair. I am trying to understand how you rig the egg sinker on a 3 way swivel? Typically you see the egg sinker in front of a regular swivel and on the other side, the leader.
#11
anoobiss
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Sunfish
Posted 12 November 2011 - 05:19 PM
Yeah, wondering this myself, also bottom bouncing at Petro, splits or egg to bottom bounce?
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