Homemade lure help

I was just wandering if I had to add counter weight to my diving balsa wood lures. I've heard different things but keep in mind I want it to float. If I add weight to help me cast or whatever one adds weight for, I want this to be a floating diving lure. could someone help me please! Thanks

maybe figur eout the depth of wer eyour fishing, and then add the weight far enough up your line to accomodate for the depth??

Thanks but I am talking about internal counterweights while making the lure not adding weights to a finished one. If anyone knows if the balsa wood lure would still float even with a little weight inside for casting distance that would be grate thanks

the buoyancy is created because the lure weighs less than the water it is displacing. If you want to find out exactly how much weight you can add you need to calculate the displacement of the lure. Balsa wood has a very low density so you should be able to add small amounts of weight. I usually just guesstimate because when I try to do the actual calculations I find that I wouldn't win "Are you smarter than a fifth grader".

Steve

Take a nail weight and literly nail it into the lure(before finishing an painting)

Another way is when you are making your blanks to carve out a section and add a ball bearing. You get both variable weight for casting and a rattle at the same time!

Hey Windsor

The added weight makes it easier to cast and it decreases the float time (time it takes to reach the surface).
It's been a long time since I built crank baits. What I used to do was take split shots and temporarily pinch them onto the hooks and put the unfinshed lure into a bucket of water. When it was near neutral bouyancy but would still float to the top so I had a rough idea of how much lead to add to the body. Then I'd drill into the body roughly enough to be equal of the split shots, and melt lead into the hole. If I added too much lead then I'd use a smaller drill bit and drill out some lead. Be sure to balance out the weight, you don't want the lure to run head down or tail down. It won't look natural. If memory serves me correct I think the added weight had to be about 30% of the distance from the head, as all lures have less wood in the tail, hence less bouyancy. Good luck, hope to see some pics of your finished lures.

P.S.
I used pine as it was cheap and available. I'll have to find my pics.........lol.

Here are lures I built long ago.

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee505/mrgrubman/Crankbaits1.jpg

grubman said:

Here are lures I built long ago.

http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee505/mrgrubman/Crankbaits1.jpg

Click to expand...

I love the grass hoppers

Thanks. Under the right conditions it's irresistable to fish. You got to have some mini baits to keep the action going. It's not weedless but bass will come out of hiding for it. I don't know what ever happened to the Mickey mouse lure I made....lol. Must have lost it to a bass or weeds.......lol.