Have a safe and successful weekend on the water!
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Big Drum on Jigs!
Started by Dugger, Jul 20 2012 04:05 PM
23 replies to this topic
#1
Dugger
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Perch
Posted 20 July 2012 - 04:05 PM
Been out all week bouncing the Chippawa and Niagara with twisters, tubes and Gulp Minnows and getting some very nice big Freshwater Drum aka Sheepshead. Using 1/8 oz heads in 10 feet of water, classic lift drop with finger on the line to feel that classic "tap" as the jig falls. Bonus fish have been black and white crappies and the odd walleye. These photos show 28 and 25 inch fish, both behemoths taken on ultralight gear and what a fight! Very dogged and determined! Respect the Sheepie.... Ontario-grown since 12,000 BC!!!!
Have a safe and successful weekend on the water!
Have a safe and successful weekend on the water!
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#2
troutddicted
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Bouts with trouts
Posted 20 July 2012 - 04:12 PM
I love catching drum, great outing and even greater beasts 
#3
Guest_Blair_*
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Posted 20 July 2012 - 04:30 PM
If anyone KNOWS where to get them in the GTA ... PM ME!
lol
Nice catch.
(The 2 fish I'm still trying to CONSISTANTLY LOCATE here in TORONTO are: DRUM & BIG CHANNEL CATS)
lol
Nice catch.
(The 2 fish I'm still trying to CONSISTANTLY LOCATE here in TORONTO are: DRUM & BIG CHANNEL CATS)
#4
FishingNoob
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Rainbow Trout
Posted 20 July 2012 - 05:05 PM
Nice fish Dugger.
#5
Dugger
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Perch
Posted 20 July 2012 - 05:23 PM
thank you Dozer and Noobster.... Blair, come fish my dock some evening, just off the dock. I feed the painted turtles and the channels "boil" and flash like lightening taking the bread off the surface.
#6
FishingNoob
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Rainbow Trout
Posted 20 July 2012 - 06:47 PM
Drum kinda look like a sunfish, carp, bass mix to me. Anybody else think the same? I hear they are great fighters! I just caught my first large mouth and small mouth ever this week so, I am kinda going bass crazy. But maybe I should start researching Drum. Blair's clue 
(no offense intended Blair)
(no offense intended Blair)
#7
Dugger
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Perch
Posted 20 July 2012 - 09:56 PM
Congrats on the bass my friend! Yes, check out drum, fabulous! Here is a 23 incher caught an hour ago on a Gulp Minnow. They certainly are an interesting fish to catch and yes, look at.
Attached Images
#8
FishingNoob
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Rainbow Trout
Posted 20 July 2012 - 11:15 PM
Congrats on the bass my friend! Yes, check out drum, fabulous! Here is a 23 incher caught an hour ago on a Gulp Minnow. They certainly are an interesting fish to catch and yes, look at.
Great Job! I think you are the Drum master! Cheers.
#9
Jacobus97
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Shiner Minnow
Posted 23 July 2012 - 08:42 PM
When I am out on lake Erie looking for Rainbows and Walleye we catch tons but just throw them back no need for them.
#10
NigelBond
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Earthworm
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:06 PM
Most people I know hate them. Nobody ever targets them around here. You'll hear people say aw goddman it, I got another poop-head. Aparrently the forum automaticly switches you know what to "poop"
#11
MichaelAngelo
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Crappie
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:16 PM
classic lift drop with finger on the line to feel that classic "tap" as the jig falls.
First off, killer fish congrats!! Could you elaborate more on this technique? Iv'e never been able to learn how to feel a hit on the drop... the line is slack and I'm not sure what to feel for...
Thanks!
#12
georgianbaydrifter
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Smallmouth Bass
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:36 PM
Gotta love jig fishin
#13
georgianbaydrifter
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Smallmouth Bass
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:42 PM
Use braid and let the jig fall on a semi slack line...you will feel a tap or added weight. Also watch for your line to jump i always use a one piece rod for jig fishing as they are far more sensitive
#14
grubman
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Largemouth Bass
Posted 23 July 2012 - 11:41 PM
Great catch Dugger!
I used to get them out in Trenton on 6lb line and a ultralight rod. What a fight!!!! Pulling down, hearing the drag screaming for mercy, watching the rod bending and worring it's going to break, then to see them try a spiral dive to get away, they are lots of fun to catch. My neice got a 16" a few years back, she was very excited.
Nice going.
I used to get them out in Trenton on 6lb line and a ultralight rod. What a fight!!!! Pulling down, hearing the drag screaming for mercy, watching the rod bending and worring it's going to break, then to see them try a spiral dive to get away, they are lots of fun to catch. My neice got a 16" a few years back, she was very excited.
Nice going.
#15
Guest_Blair_*
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Posted 24 July 2012 - 11:15 AM
Use braid and let the jig fall on a semi slack line...you will feel a tap or added weight. Also watch for your line to jump i always use a one piece rod for jig fishing as they are far more sensitive
Obee One Kenobi (Experience) at it's best!
#16
Dugger
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Perch
Posted 25 July 2012 - 05:24 PM
shank you kind anglers for the comments! hmmmm do not discount drum, these are not grandpappy's small bleached-out pier sheepies caught on heavy gear and a pickerel rig with a one oz bell sinker lol!!!!!!! Freshwater drum have a few saltwater family members that many anglers target in the south. The freshwater drum is our baby and god I just love em!
#17
Dugger
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Perch
Posted 25 July 2012 - 05:42 PM
First off, killer fish congrats!! Could you elaborate more on this technique? Iv'e never been able to learn how to feel a hit on the drop... the line is slack and I'm not sure what to feel for...
Thanks!
ty Michael yes so jigging.... Georgian nailed er with his response. I do several things with my hands/rod/fingers when jigging.
1) After casting out my 1/8 oz jig in slow, no current, say 12 feet of water. I flip the bail and as the jig descends i follow it by lowering my rod as it falls, keeping a slight slight bow in my line waiting for the jig to hit bottom. Often i get fish in this first fall, I am ALWAYS watching the line where it meets the surface of the water, waiting for the, as Georgian aptly put it, line to "jump". NEVER LOWER YOUR ROD FASTER THAN THE FALL NOR CREATE TOO MUSH SLACK! It is a "controlled" descent.
2) In slack current, no current, no drift, I reel in the jig as i lift the rod to 45 degrees or so and lower the rod, dropping the jig, hopping it. Again, CONTROLLED DROPS. Watch the line/water point for the jump and you can also feel the "hit" thru your rod handle. I often retrieve holding the front grip with a forefinger along the shaft of the actual rod to feel this. Caution, if you lift the rod too high as you are hopping just as you lower it you may get a hit and your rod will be too high for a successful hook set.
3) in a current, drifting in a boat, I most often jig with the wind/current and that means little line retrieval so I am able to cast out, be alert for any hits on the initial drop and then bounce/lift/lower the jig as it and I, glide with the current. In this scenario I al again always watching the line/water point but I also have my index finger on the line, holding it with my finger tip to feel any hits.
4) in a current or drifting boat i often cast and while holding my rod with my right hand i pull line out of my reel with my left and hold it like an extended guitar string or someone pulling back a bow and arrow. This technique can be dangerous but it can also provide great sensitivity in feeling the bottom, hits etc. Why dangerous? Because when that fish hits you need to let go of the line with your left hand at the right moment as you set the hook. I often STILL hold the line when setting the hook this way. There is a danger too that when you let go of the line to set the hook, the line will wrapped around the bail or reel handle on its way back to the spool. Having said that, i do love this technique.
5) One piece rods are a joy to jig with but hmmm whatever you have. the tip will often jump and you feel the hit, the tap, in the rod handle itself and often, if you are in mid retrieval, in the reel handle itself. And yes braid really telegraphs that hit.
The joys of jigging can be amplified if you use the right weight for a given situation. Many many times a 1/8 oz ball head jig will do the job where a 1/4 oz would only result in more snags, faster descent.
ok that's my two cents worth on the subject
#18
Guest_Blair_*
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Posted 25 July 2012 - 10:35 PM
Nice Write Up Dugger - on Jig Techniques!
I always preferred the Small light weight jigs ....
For most of my "conditions" ... the softer, more natural drop works best.
Light / sensitive line paired with light head.
I jig worms, crayfish, plastics, minnows ... all kinds of things.
I like the fact that your "Sinker/Weight" is built right into the setup. Simple and effective.
I always preferred the Small light weight jigs ....
For most of my "conditions" ... the softer, more natural drop works best.
Light / sensitive line paired with light head.
I jig worms, crayfish, plastics, minnows ... all kinds of things.
I like the fact that your "Sinker/Weight" is built right into the setup. Simple and effective.
#19
georgianbaydrifter
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Smallmouth Bass
Posted 26 July 2012 - 04:13 AM
Good information there for those who are just getting into jig fishing dugger. As much as i am always talking down high vis line i am experimenting with 40lb highvis pink braid. Very easy to follow and the heavy braid really slows the jigs fall .
#20
Guest_Blair_*
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Posted 26 July 2012 - 01:30 PM
10 Steps to Better Jigging
Ted Takasaki and Scott Richardson
Most anglers believe that they know all about jigs just because jigs have been around ever since man first pinched lead shot on a hook. But, that's just not so. Jigging basics may seem simple enough and mastering the fundamental of jigging technique can mean the difference between catching fish and not. Try this 10-step program to better jigging.
Step 1: Stay on the bottom
Lake, river or reservoir, walleyes relating to structure and current spend most of their time on or near the bottom. Choose the right-sized jig to keep your minnow, leech or nightcrawler down amongst them.
Walleyes eat by inhaling the water around their target. A light jig may make it easier to engulf. But, be prepared to adapt. Jigs that are too small for the conditions may keep you out of the strike zone entirely.
They may also make it impossible to keep your line vertical to sense light bites. Increase the weight of your jig as depth, wind or current increase. When in doubt, go heavier. There might even be times when only a 1-ounce jig will do. If you miss strikes with a big jig, add a stinger to increase odds of a hook-up. Try leaving the barbs of the stinger hook completely out of your bait. This will increase the natural action and appearance of your live bait.
Smaller is usually better when working the shallows. In lakes, cast or flip 1/16th or 1/8th-ounce jigs to rip-rap or to pockets in the weeds. In rivers, use just enough weight to take the jig to the bottom when you cast upstream. Lift it. The flow should move it downstream just off the bottom until it comes to rest again. Repeat.
Step 2: Consider the forage
Although a light jig will often accomplish the primary goal of bottom contact, jigs with a bigger profiles might still be the answer if walleyes are keying on larger forage. Don't assume. Let the fish tell you what they want.
Step 3: Use the right tool
Jig heads come in several shapes for a reason. Use the right one for the job. Ball-style jigs are most common. They work well in current or still water for casting and vertical jigging. Larger sizes can trolled or drifted. Swimming jigs have a long, flat design with the hook eye placed in front. They're best for casting in weeds, like Lindy's NO-SNAGG Veg-E-Jig. Current cutters, or pancake jigs, are designed to be hydro-dynamic in moving water. They are great for rivers. Larger sizes can be used on a dropper line of a three-way-rig to put an additional hook in the water where legal.
Step 4: Change colors
Admit it. We all go to the water with notions of what should work. No where is that more apparent than in choice of colors. Jig heads and plastics come in a thousand hues. Yet, we insist on using the same old favorites. Just because something worked yesterday or even this morning doesn't mean it will work now. Water clarity and light conditions change constantly. Use trial and error until you find a combination that triggers strikes. Try plastic trailers and without. Don't forget maribou-type jigs, such as Lindy's Fuzz-E-Grub. Don't stop switching even when you start catching fish. If chartreuse or orange or pink or blue seem to work, try different shades of those colors to fine-tune the presentation and see if a slight variation will entice the biggest fish. If action stops, change up again. For starters, try brighter colors in stained or dirty water and darker colors for clear.
Step 5: Vary live bait, too
Since jigs are one of the oldest, most effective live-bait delivery systems we have, we've developed "rules" over the years on when minnows, nightcrawlers or leeches should work best. Minnows are the choice in the cold water of spring and fall. Leeches are the favored bait in warm water. Nightcrawlers seem good across the calendar. But, don't be afraid to break the rules. There's been many times during spring floods when walleyes inhale worms and ignore minnows. See what works. The fish will let you know.
Step 6: Alter jig action
Walleyes will absolutely destroy a bait at times. At others, they don't seem interested at all. Perhaps a cold front has passed through or the wind direction changed. Keep testing their mood. Attract the most-aggressive fish by popping your jig up, then letting it fall back to the bottom. Follow the jig down with the rod tip to keep your line taut in order to maintain control of the jig. Next, try a slow lift-drop, lift-drop. Then, drag it on the bottom or quiver it slightly.
Step 7: Concentrate
Visualize your jig. Imagine where it is in the water and what it looks like to fish. Better yet, use an underwater fish cam like the Aqua-Vu to see exactly how walleyes react to your bait. We've found most anglers often "over-jig." Use your jig as a tool to gather information. For example, try to feel subtle changes in the bottom. Spots where it changes from hard to soft can be key. Intense focus also helps when bites are so light that nothing at all is telegraphed up your line through your rod. A slight movement or "heavy" feel may be all the notice you get. Set the hook at the slightest change.
Step 8: Two rods better than one
Practice using two matched rod and reel combos, if your state allows. Test different colors and livebait on each. But, if you find it hard to control both rods to keep both jigs in the strike zone, put one rod down or use it as a "dead-stick" in a rod-holder. One jig fished correctly is better than two fished poorly.
Step 9: Practice boat control
Boat control is essential to good jigging. In current, point your bow upstream or into the wind and use short bursts from an electric trolling motor to match your boat speed with the water flow. Keep your line vertical below the boat and watch your rod tip for a slight bow to signal bottom contact. All rules have exceptions. There are places like the Rainy River where walleyes seem to prefer stationary jigs below anchored boats. Try that, too. In absence of current, a puck transducer mounted on your trolling motor to feed data to your bow-mounted sonar or flasher helps keep your jig on the critical "spot on a spot."
Step 10: Fish fish
The best jigging mechanics won't do any good if you aren't fishing where the fish are. Study the map of lake or river section you are targeting to find likely spots using what you know about walleye movements in the calendar period. Along the way , stop at more than one bait shop for the latest word on where the bigger schools are located and for an idea of what presentations others are using. Ask questions at the ramp. Once on the water, move from spot to spot using your electronics to find forage fish and likely walleyes before you start to fish. These tips are sure to make you a better walleye angler. Jigging is one of the key fundamental presentations to master.
_________________________________________________________
Another Pretty Good Site with info (Mainly Bass orientated) is this:
Jig Fishing A to Z
http://www.bassdozer...g-fishing.shtml
__________________________________________________________
Steel Head
http://www.steelhead....com/jigs2.html
Ted Takasaki and Scott Richardson
Most anglers believe that they know all about jigs just because jigs have been around ever since man first pinched lead shot on a hook. But, that's just not so. Jigging basics may seem simple enough and mastering the fundamental of jigging technique can mean the difference between catching fish and not. Try this 10-step program to better jigging.
Step 1: Stay on the bottom
Lake, river or reservoir, walleyes relating to structure and current spend most of their time on or near the bottom. Choose the right-sized jig to keep your minnow, leech or nightcrawler down amongst them.
Walleyes eat by inhaling the water around their target. A light jig may make it easier to engulf. But, be prepared to adapt. Jigs that are too small for the conditions may keep you out of the strike zone entirely.
They may also make it impossible to keep your line vertical to sense light bites. Increase the weight of your jig as depth, wind or current increase. When in doubt, go heavier. There might even be times when only a 1-ounce jig will do. If you miss strikes with a big jig, add a stinger to increase odds of a hook-up. Try leaving the barbs of the stinger hook completely out of your bait. This will increase the natural action and appearance of your live bait.
Smaller is usually better when working the shallows. In lakes, cast or flip 1/16th or 1/8th-ounce jigs to rip-rap or to pockets in the weeds. In rivers, use just enough weight to take the jig to the bottom when you cast upstream. Lift it. The flow should move it downstream just off the bottom until it comes to rest again. Repeat.
Step 2: Consider the forage
Although a light jig will often accomplish the primary goal of bottom contact, jigs with a bigger profiles might still be the answer if walleyes are keying on larger forage. Don't assume. Let the fish tell you what they want.
Step 3: Use the right tool
Jig heads come in several shapes for a reason. Use the right one for the job. Ball-style jigs are most common. They work well in current or still water for casting and vertical jigging. Larger sizes can trolled or drifted. Swimming jigs have a long, flat design with the hook eye placed in front. They're best for casting in weeds, like Lindy's NO-SNAGG Veg-E-Jig. Current cutters, or pancake jigs, are designed to be hydro-dynamic in moving water. They are great for rivers. Larger sizes can be used on a dropper line of a three-way-rig to put an additional hook in the water where legal.
Step 4: Change colors
Admit it. We all go to the water with notions of what should work. No where is that more apparent than in choice of colors. Jig heads and plastics come in a thousand hues. Yet, we insist on using the same old favorites. Just because something worked yesterday or even this morning doesn't mean it will work now. Water clarity and light conditions change constantly. Use trial and error until you find a combination that triggers strikes. Try plastic trailers and without. Don't forget maribou-type jigs, such as Lindy's Fuzz-E-Grub. Don't stop switching even when you start catching fish. If chartreuse or orange or pink or blue seem to work, try different shades of those colors to fine-tune the presentation and see if a slight variation will entice the biggest fish. If action stops, change up again. For starters, try brighter colors in stained or dirty water and darker colors for clear.
Step 5: Vary live bait, too
Since jigs are one of the oldest, most effective live-bait delivery systems we have, we've developed "rules" over the years on when minnows, nightcrawlers or leeches should work best. Minnows are the choice in the cold water of spring and fall. Leeches are the favored bait in warm water. Nightcrawlers seem good across the calendar. But, don't be afraid to break the rules. There's been many times during spring floods when walleyes inhale worms and ignore minnows. See what works. The fish will let you know.
Step 6: Alter jig action
Walleyes will absolutely destroy a bait at times. At others, they don't seem interested at all. Perhaps a cold front has passed through or the wind direction changed. Keep testing their mood. Attract the most-aggressive fish by popping your jig up, then letting it fall back to the bottom. Follow the jig down with the rod tip to keep your line taut in order to maintain control of the jig. Next, try a slow lift-drop, lift-drop. Then, drag it on the bottom or quiver it slightly.
Step 7: Concentrate
Visualize your jig. Imagine where it is in the water and what it looks like to fish. Better yet, use an underwater fish cam like the Aqua-Vu to see exactly how walleyes react to your bait. We've found most anglers often "over-jig." Use your jig as a tool to gather information. For example, try to feel subtle changes in the bottom. Spots where it changes from hard to soft can be key. Intense focus also helps when bites are so light that nothing at all is telegraphed up your line through your rod. A slight movement or "heavy" feel may be all the notice you get. Set the hook at the slightest change.
Step 8: Two rods better than one
Practice using two matched rod and reel combos, if your state allows. Test different colors and livebait on each. But, if you find it hard to control both rods to keep both jigs in the strike zone, put one rod down or use it as a "dead-stick" in a rod-holder. One jig fished correctly is better than two fished poorly.
Step 9: Practice boat control
Boat control is essential to good jigging. In current, point your bow upstream or into the wind and use short bursts from an electric trolling motor to match your boat speed with the water flow. Keep your line vertical below the boat and watch your rod tip for a slight bow to signal bottom contact. All rules have exceptions. There are places like the Rainy River where walleyes seem to prefer stationary jigs below anchored boats. Try that, too. In absence of current, a puck transducer mounted on your trolling motor to feed data to your bow-mounted sonar or flasher helps keep your jig on the critical "spot on a spot."
Step 10: Fish fish
The best jigging mechanics won't do any good if you aren't fishing where the fish are. Study the map of lake or river section you are targeting to find likely spots using what you know about walleye movements in the calendar period. Along the way , stop at more than one bait shop for the latest word on where the bigger schools are located and for an idea of what presentations others are using. Ask questions at the ramp. Once on the water, move from spot to spot using your electronics to find forage fish and likely walleyes before you start to fish. These tips are sure to make you a better walleye angler. Jigging is one of the key fundamental presentations to master.
_________________________________________________________
Another Pretty Good Site with info (Mainly Bass orientated) is this:
Jig Fishing A to Z
http://www.bassdozer...g-fishing.shtml
__________________________________________________________
Steel Head
http://www.steelhead....com/jigs2.html
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