14 replies to this topic

[getin]

Hey guys,
The cold days are coming and I hate to have to do the whole leader from float and split shots to the hook every time it breaks so I was wondering what is the quickest rig to set up in the following situation:

A high vis main line and a leader. The problem is I cannot push the float up pase the knot/swivel that links the two. So my lader has to be long enough and split shots have to be on the leader. As a result, when the leader breaks, everything has to be done again. I was thinking of using a shot-line (mono or flouro, higher test lb than the leader, lower than the main line). This way when the leader breaks, I still have the shot line and need to only tie a 1-2 ft leader to it. I suppose one alternative would be to use clear mono (rather than high vis) and put the float and shots on the main line.
Any suggestion?

[riverhugger]

Why not just do this:


Maineline-----------float------splitshots--------swivel->leader---------------------bait


When you break off just tie on a new leader to the swivel and you are good to go.

EDIT:

I don't think its a problem having high-vis mainline in the water, if you are drifting right and check the float the fish should see the bait/leader well before it sees the shot/mainline.

[jc53]

Shot line from your main line
Main line ....swivel .....shot line.....swivel..... Fluor line... Hook
All your shot on on shot line and your float
Works for me

[NADO]

how big are the swivels you use? I have no problems sliding my float over the micro swivels (not that I do because I run clear mainline so my only swivel is to my fluro leader) if you are having a tough time sliding your float over the swivel just take the float off and slide the rubber pieces over the swivel and then re-attach the float(assuming your using a fixed float). If you dont like sliding the float over the swivel you can always use a uni to uni knot.

[getin]

Thank you guys, great suggestions. I am going to try each when it's still not that could and see which one is faster.

[christotheashto]

Well this is what my setup looks like

Mainline -> float (on mainline) -> 1gr. shot to cock the float -> micro swivel -> 2.5ft – 3ft shot line (usually 8lb trilene moss green) -> micro swivel -> 24 – 30” fluoro leader
To minimize down time in the event I break off my shot line, I always have pre-tied shotline/leader combos on my lindy rigger. Saves me SO much time river-side when I get an unmanageable tangle or break off the shot line somehow. Rather than spend 20 minutes trying to untangle a nasty tip wrap or re-weight a shot line, I just peel one off my rigger and tie it on beneath my float. I can then move my float up as much as I need to in order to get deeper.

I noticed an increase in hookups when moving from a hi-vis mainline direct to leader (4 ft of hi-vis under the water) vs. all of the hi vis above the float.

[riverhugger]

Well this is what my setup looks like

Mainline -> float (on mainline) -> 1gr. shot to cock the float -> micro swivel -> 2.5ft – 3ft shot line (usually 8lb trilene moss green) -> micro swivel -> 24 – 30” fluoro leader
To minimize down time in the event I break off my shot line, I always have pre-tied shotline/leader combos on my lindy rigger. Saves me SO much time river-side when I get an unmanageable tangle or break off the shot line somehow. Rather than spend 20 minutes trying to untangle a nasty tip wrap or re-weight a shot line, I just peel one off my rigger and tie it on beneath my float. I can then move my float up as much as I need to in order to get deeper.

I noticed an increase in hookups when moving from a hi-vis mainline direct to leader (4 ft of hi-vis under the water) vs. all of the hi vis above the float.

Interesting observation on the increase in hookups. Can't say it doesn't make sense.

I think I will try running a low vis shot line and see the results. How do you keep your pre tied shot lines from getting tangled up in storage? I used to pre tie shot lines as well but they always seemed to require the same amount of time as just quickly shotting my line to untangle.



EDIT: lindy rigger... missed that line. XD

[christotheashto]

EDIT: lindy rigger... missed that line. XD

lol you got it handiest invention ever, you can buy em for like $6 in the walmart fishing aisle, for some reason could never find em at CT up this way.

[Koho]

Hey guys,
The cold days are coming and I hate to have to do the whole leader from float and split shots to the hook every time it breaks so I was wondering what is the quickest rig to set up in the following situation:

A high vis main line and a leader. The problem is I cannot push the float up pase the knot/swivel that links the two. So my lader has to be long enough and split shots have to be on the leader. As a result, when the leader breaks, everything has to be done again. I was thinking of using a shot-line (mono or flouro, higher test lb than the leader, lower than the main line). This way when the leader breaks, I still have the shot line and need to only tie a 1-2 ft leader to it. I suppose one alternative would be to use clear mono (rather than high vis) and put the float and shots on the main line.
Any suggestion?

Yup, I have a few suggestions. I am a multispecies angler and struggled with the right set up for float fishing for a few years.
If its cold weather ie below zero, then braid is the worst. It becomes a frozen rope on your spool. So a main line that is a a slightly coloured mono is the best. I prefer 12 lbs mono. Put the bobber on. Split shots as well. Now you must learn the hardest part..........
Line to line connections. I use the standard knot that I tie onto the hook in my line to line connection. I simply brace and tighten one line between my mouth and knees then tie my standard knot around the braced line. Switch and Repeat. Trim and burn excess, if done right then the knot will be small and smooth enough to fit through any eyelet. I use a wright and McGill micro. This knot system will become so engraved into your fingers you'll be able to do this in negative weather on the bank of the creek.
This may take a few tries but this is how the pros use less line and learn to use backing on your spool, this technique saved me a lot of money learning to use bait casters.

Let me digress, 12 lb mono coloured with bobbers split shots then line to flouro 10 lb or less. I run different lines depending on clarity and the size of the fish and my rod size.
I have and 8' rod which means I can run the same 4lb leader as the guy with an 13' rod. With salmon this year I ran 12 lb flouro as a tip and I slayed them with no breaks. When I ran 8lb I would have 6 breaks in a day. 6lb I was tying every hookup with seldom lands. So I went heavier getting less hits but more fish.

The real trick is being able to adjust the bobber - split shots- bait ratio. This will vary at every location pool to pool and where you want you bait to be. Having the right space between each significantly increases hook ups.

[NADO]

Well this is what my setup looks like

Mainline -> float (on mainline) -> 1gr. shot to cock the float -> micro swivel -> 2.5ft – 3ft shot line (usually 8lb trilene moss green) -> micro swivel -> 24 – 30” fluoro leader
To minimize down time in the event I break off my shot line, I always have pre-tied shotline/leader combos on my lindy rigger. Saves me SO much time river-side when I get an unmanageable tangle or break off the shot line somehow. Rather than spend 20 minutes trying to untangle a nasty tip wrap or re-weight a shot line, I just peel one off my rigger and tie it on beneath my float. I can then move my float up as much as I need to in order to get deeper.

I noticed an increase in hookups when moving from a hi-vis mainline direct to leader (4 ft of hi-vis under the water) vs. all of the hi vis above the float.

How do you fish a shallow fast run if you come across it then? Just re-tie? The dilemma I am having now that im trying to solve is shotting for certain depths. Usually the total length of my leader and shotted line is about 4-6' which is great for medium to deep pools but if I come across a shallow run that is holding fish im pretty much screwed because the shots dont have wings so they cant be moved. I can forcefully slide them down but the line becomes damaged. What I have been doing lately is just making more compact shotting patterns but that doesnt allow as nice of a drift.

I guess what you are technically supposed to do is re-do your whole rig when you come to that shallow run but im way too lazy to do that unless ill be fishing that run for a good while.

[christotheashto]

In this scenario I do one of two things. Using the mono for a shot line lets me slide the shot around pretty easily without damaging the line too much just make sure you don’t pinch it on too tight. I also have a special plier tool which I purchased from CPC that makes it easy to remove, non-removeable split shot. SUPER handy tool, it’s a bit pricy but knowing how useful it is now id never go without it. Also functions as needle nose, snips, hook eye cleaner, etc.

But to be honest, I rarely do any of that. If its really that shallow and I can sight fish, I either a) re-tie with just main line -> float -> swivel -> 24” of fluoro. swing flies.
99% of the time in the shallows I will just drift a bugger or nuke egg. That said, most of the time im carrying two combos, one float and one fly. I’ve had good success on the 24” of fluoro too though in shallow runs. Just make sure you trot the float hard to ensure your presentation is hanging in the current and not just dragging on bottom.

[NADO]

Shot removing tool??? Please explain more! lol

[FISHCHRIS]

i own one of those tools from centerpinangling as well,it is a bit pricey but comes in handy.this tool allows you to reuse some of your shots.if i end up with a real mess just get rid of it into my pack then later back home use that tool and salvage the shots for another use.

[Bug_Slinger]

[christotheashto]

Shot removing tool??? Please explain more! lol

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