Jump to content


Photo

Shotting Patterns help for river steelhead

shotting pattern splitshot

  • Please log in to reply
5 replies to this topic

#1 rayray519

rayray519

    Crappie

  • Active Members
  • 349 posts

Posted 09 September 2013 - 01:09 PM

Looking at this shotting pattern, and the standard split shot weight ratings, can someone tell me the exact weight I would need for the "Standard Shot pattern" and the "Tapered shotting pattern"?  
Assuming that I would be using a Fast/Medium 5g/6g float.  (fishing in about 4-5ft of water) - Maitland river to be exact.  
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

Attached Files


  • 0

#2 beef

beef

    Sunfish

  • Banned
  • 148 posts

Posted 11 September 2013 - 07:06 AM

Your shot pattern will be different all the time it all depends on current,depth and clarity and also the bait your useing put enough under your float to stand it up and play around with the rest
  • 0

#3 acmarou

acmarou

    Shiner Minnow

  • Members
  • 20 posts

Posted 11 September 2013 - 01:50 PM

I think the gram rating on your float is about what you'll need regardless of shotting pattern. You only want the coloured portion of your float above the waterline.


  • 0

#4 Grey Ghost

Grey Ghost

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 50 posts

Posted 11 September 2013 - 01:57 PM

If you want float neutrality you match the float weight up with your shot weight. Remember that different manufacturers of shot use similar numbering but the weights can be different. With the Raven shot neutral shot weight can be achieved by putting 12 - 14 BBs (12 * .40grams = 4.8 grams). If you switch to Water Gremlin shot the BB shot weighs .56 grams and 12 shots would sink your float.

 

You can reduce the weight to create a higher float profile in the water (visibility). Neutral bouancy reduces the pressure the fish feels from the float though, so if you are using a larger float it can result in fish dropping the bait.

 

Shotting pattern refers to the placement of shot on the line to affect the drift. If the water is slow and clear you may want to group your shot closer to the float to lengthen the free line. You can use different combinations of the weights with a couple of larger shot closer to the float and smaller and smaller as you go down the line. This will get a quicker drop in the water but still reduce fish seeing the shot. So you could have an AAA, 2 - AB, 3 - BB, 3 - #1, and 3 - #4 (.81+1.2+1.2+.81+.34 = 4.5 gr)

 

 

 

 


  • 1

#5 RiverRuns

RiverRuns

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 145 posts

Posted 11 September 2013 - 02:48 PM

I fish the Maitey as well but I'm no shot-pattern "purist" - I use the least shot needed that gets the bait in front of the fish (and the fish hitting, of course!)..I prefer the faster sections of water, so I often have a shot or 2 right under the float, and a majority of the rest bulked closer to the leader in order to get it down quickly. Putting 15 shots in a beautiful cascade down the line when one or 2 heavier ones will do seems like a waste of time to me.
  • 0

#6 coldfeet

coldfeet

    Crappie

  • Active Members
  • 354 posts

Posted 11 September 2013 - 07:17 PM

I had trouble when I began float fishing figuring out if I'd shotted correctly, it's something you play around with depending on conditions. I like the smallest float I can get away with but sometimes you need bigger ones, your cast is also affected by float size in my opinion. I've been going with bigger but less shot too instead of a dozen or so.


  • 1