So I went to the clave today and watched and listened but didn't throw my waders on and attempt to cast. My question for the experienced speyniacs is how did you decide on your first rod purchase, i.e.- length; weight; etc . I'll predominantly be fishing the Credit or Notty so although 70-100' casts are impressive are they always necessary? I can throw single handed a little ways but I suppose if I'm not on a larger river it's not necessary, or is it better to have the rocket at your disposal if necessary and if on a smaller trib just ease up a bit? Should I start economy and see if I like it, go midrange or all in? All answers appreciated.
|
Spey Clave- questions
#1
Posted 14 September 2013 - 07:40 PM
|
#2
Posted 14 September 2013 - 07:42 PM
#3
Posted 14 September 2013 - 08:14 PM
thanks madman!
#4
Posted 15 September 2013 - 08:14 AM
#5
Posted 15 September 2013 - 11:22 AM
#6
Posted 15 September 2013 - 11:28 AM
#7
Posted 15 September 2013 - 06:15 PM
#9
Posted 15 September 2013 - 08:18 PM
Bummer cc would have liked to met up with you or anyone there for that matter, should have worn a nametag with my handle on it...
#10
Posted 15 September 2013 - 08:19 PM
so much swag so little dineros
#11
Posted 15 September 2013 - 08:23 PM
I was there too from 10:30-3:30. How do you decide what line to get to throw it across the grand?
Wish I knew, we could have hung out. She's pretty wide, probably easier to drive over and cast from the other side....
#13
Posted 15 September 2013 - 11:12 PM
I've been fishing a GPX for about ten years...still performs great, but I think it's about time to invest...LOL
#14
Posted 16 September 2013 - 03:27 PM
#15
Posted 17 September 2013 - 02:44 PM
Just my own experience. I fish pretty much all southern Ontario rivers. I started with a 13 foot cannonish rod. It was great to fish with that thing. Untill I picked up a 11 foot switch rod. It seems that now every time I head out I take the switch. I feel like my switch setup can do 90% of the things I need very well. The other 10% it does with a little extra effort. Also the switch got much better when I changed from a skagit short to a skagit switch line with mow tips. Dam I cant wait to get out there this season. Give me the tug drugggg......
#16
Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:46 AM
#17
Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:46 AM
#18
Posted 23 September 2013 - 12:09 PM
Yes a skagit line is more "clunky". The scandi lines tend to be longer and leaner. For myself the skagit fits the style of fishing I like to do the most. I like the foolproof nature of the skagit. The skagit seems to rip and thow with ease. Im sure there are scandi guys that can do the same. Its all what you like. Try both and see. Most good fly shops should let you try before you buy.
#19
Posted 23 September 2013 - 01:42 PM
#20
Posted 23 September 2013 - 09:01 PM
Basically, Scandi and Skagit are shooting heads. Therefore you can cast both a tonne of distance. Between casts you need to strip in all the shooting line until your back to near the start of the head. The Scandi heads run to a finer taper and tend to be longer (say 30-40'), so they turn over more nimbly and set down more gently. The cast has a lighter quicker tempo. Generally you would only use floating or Poly/Versi type leaders. Scandi also prefers lighter flies. Skagit heads are blunt and thick (say 20-30'). You can attach any type of leader or sink tips, including all the T types. It casts with a much slower tempo, and slaps down a lot harder. It will turn over and deliver the heaviest of flies a tonne of distance. Skagit casts require little or no back cast space, Scandi needs a little more.
Learning to cast longer head requires better technique, Skagtis are the easiest to get functional with. I have used them all but I enjoy Scandi heads and longish spey lines the best.
There are lots of lines to pick from. If you are starting I'd suggest the newer skagit-scandi line hybrids like the Airflo Rage the Rio Spey Versi-Tip
|