Jump to content


Photo

Float fishing lines...


  • Please log in to reply
46 replies to this topic

#1 AboveAverageJoe

AboveAverageJoe

    Shiner Minnow

  • Members
  • 11 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 09:09 AM

Hey Everyone!

 

Im new to this forum and also new to float fishing, as I just got a new reel!

 

I am a long time fisher of walleye,pike, trout, salmon everything but never floated with a float reel always spoons or floated with my noodle rod.

As I picked up my reel I am now in need of knowing what I use for backing and what I use for line on these things, because I a, very new to it so im hoping someone on this large forum can help me out!

I mostly fish bigger fish in Niagara whirlpool and such but sometimes hit smaller streams or inlets of the great lakes so I am thinking I need something heavier for line possibly?

 

if someone could help me out that would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Thanks,

 

AboveAverageJoe


  • 0

#2 Fishheads

Fishheads

    Float Fishing Superstore

  • Active Members
  • 754 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 12:17 PM

Hey Joe. Give us a call we can help you out with any questions you have! Thanks.

905-243-1459


  • 0

#3 artimus001

artimus001

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 122 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 12:45 PM

Hey Joe. Give us a call we can help you out with any questions you have! Thanks.

905-243-1459

how about helping the guy out with an answer (and for all the other noobs), instead of just spamming the site?

 

 

Hey Everyone!

 

Im new to this forum and also new to float fishing, as I just got a new reel!

 

I am a long time fisher of walleye,pike, trout, salmon everything but never floated with a float reel always spoons or floated with my noodle rod.

As I picked up my reel I am now in need of knowing what I use for backing and what I use for line on these things, because I a, very new to it so im hoping someone on this large forum can help me out!

I mostly fish bigger fish in Niagara whirlpool and such but sometimes hit smaller streams or inlets of the great lakes so I am thinking I need something heavier for line possibly?

 

if someone could help me out that would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Thanks,

 

AboveAverageJoe

Joe, your line requirements can basically be broken down into three primary sections. there is the backing, the running line and the tip section.

the backing is the filler. any line here works as all it does is fill the spool. in the past, i've used 20lb mono whatever brand i has on hand. i would fill my spool to within 3/8" from the edge of the rim.

 

next is the running line. this is the line that you will lead to your float and other gear. everyone has a favourite, with a few brands standing out namely Raven, and Andes. i'll let people that have fished the Niagara to help figure out line weight.

 

the tip section would be all your shot lines(i've never really figured this thought process out) and leader. leader material is usually fluorocarbon and not mono. smaller tribs and clearer flows i'll go down as far as 4lbs. for fast flows and coloured waters i'll go as high 8lb. again, i'll let people that have fished the Niagara to help figure out leader weight.

 

i hope this helps.......


  • 0

#4 DILLIGAF?!

DILLIGAF?!

    Rainbow Trout

  • Active Members
  • 2,707 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 01:20 PM

Hey Joe, backing is very important specially when fishing Niagara whirlpool. I use braided backing...just like the backing for fly setup. If i'm targeting big game, I use trilene 17lb mainline, 6lb fluoro leader. I don't use shotlines...I just crimp my shots on my leader. If i'm on small streams. I use suffix floating line hi vis. 10lb as main and 4lb fluoro. leader for steelhead. 14lb and 4lb fluoro leader for river salmon. good luck and hopefully we can see some great pics from you soon.


  • 0

#5 Fishheads

Fishheads

    Float Fishing Superstore

  • Active Members
  • 754 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 01:36 PM

"If someone could help me out that would be greatly appreciated!"

Face to face or over the phone can be far superior to forum text. At no point did I plug our products. In any case, I apologize to everyone for "just spamming"...

 

Joe, sorry for that, let me add some helpful information. 

 

How were you fishing the Niagara in the past? What is your current/past set up? (spoons and cast and retrieve on the spin, floating on the spin, bottom bouncing on the spin reel, etc.) What lines are you currently running? Braid? Mono?

 

There are a variety of options, as everyone runs their own unique set up. Niagara gives you more room to play with varieties than smaller rivers. 

 

For both scenarios, small and big water, you will want to start your pin with fly line backing. This is a light weight alternative to filling ~half your spool with main line which is heavier and would cost more. Fly line backing does not need to be replaced each time you respool your main line. Choose a colour you like. Backing strength doesn't play much of a factor, as you should never really end up into it when your fighting a fish on your centerpin. 20-30lb strength is average. Attach your backing to your reel using an arbour knot.    100yrds should do the trick.

 

Now it is time to start getting a bit more specific. Assuming you are fishing the Niagara for Steelhead on the float, I would suggest a 10-12 lb mono main line. You can attach this to your backing line using an albright knot. If you were running just Niagara, I would suggest 12+. Since you will be playing in some smaller water, 10 would be a more versatile line, but you are giving up some strength in that Niagara water. I have fished the Niagara for a few years now, and if those fish get out into some real current, a 10lb line can break you off as quick as those fish run out there(given you will be forced to run a smaller leader on 10lb main line than a 12+).  General rule of thumb is to leave as much space on your spool as there is between the spool edge and backing. Most reels its about ~3mm from the outer edge of your backplate to where your spool attaches. Keep your line this far back a gain from the edge of your spool. (In total you are looking for about ~5-6 mm space left on your spool to the outside of your reel. There are plenty of mainline companies out there, take your pick. Tournament lines are stronger for the diameter of the line, but cost more. Usually about 250 yrds or so. 

 

On your main line you will want to attach your float. Most guys run slip floats about 15grams. Lots of room to play with size to find a float that supports your shot and presentation that works for you.

 

Next you will want to run a XS barrel swivel. Attach this with an improved clinch knot to your main line. now on the other side of your swivel attach your leader line with another improved clinch knot. You always want your fluorocarbon leader line to be at minimum 2lbs test shy of your main line. In the event you get snagged up or your under enough pressure of a fish in fast water, your leader line will be what breaks and you will still have your float, and shot that is attached to your main line.  Note that Drennan lines run stronger than they market. I wouldn't have a smaller gap than a 12lb mainline with a 8LB Drennan (as it runs closer to a true 10lb line). a 4lb gap is always a safer gap than a 2lb gap.

 

You can use as long as a leader as you want. In small water outside the Niagara you would probably want to run approximately a 3-4 ft leader. In the Niagara you can go up to 6-8 feet if the water is really clear (like it gets some days). The shorter the leader the cheaper it is, essentially. The less you will lose on a break off. The shorter is is, the spookier the fish will get. It is a trade off.

 

Everyone runs different presentations in the Niagara. Roe sacs, skien, beads, minnows, etc etc etc. Options and choices are yours. 

 

Shot patterns vary in Niagara as well. A lot of guys are scared of attaching shot to leader lines. If you are using a weighted presentation (jig head etc.) You wouldn't have a need to attach shot to your leader. Most guys will bulk shot just above their swivel (on the main line) to get their presentation deep as quick as possible. Some will add smaller shot on the leader when drifting presentations with little to no weight like worms, plastics, and roe sacs. 

 

I could go on and on but without hearing some answers for you it is hard to dial in and help you specifically. I hope some of this helps and you're gunna love hooking up to your FIRST FISH ON THE PIN !!!!!!!!! Fish on!


  • 1

#6 AboveAverageJoe

AboveAverageJoe

    Shiner Minnow

  • Members
  • 11 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 02:24 PM

ok sounds great so far I understand!

 

what I want to know is my backing going to be floating fly line of my choice? does it really matter?

 

then for my main line is it a coloured line usually too?

and is the float above the swivel so the swivel is the bobber stop? ive floated with a casting rod a few times

 

then leader is fluorocarbon of my choice?


  • 0

#7 BearInTheWoods

BearInTheWoods

    Sunfish

  • Active Members
  • 273 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 02:40 PM

I don't think you were spamming the site by offering personal advice, as someone who is considering gearing up for salmon/trout I'd appreciate the offer.

I wouldn't take it personally, artimus seems to have a chip on his shoulder. Aggressive and confrontational and I'm sure I'll feel the wrath for mentioning it.

:)
  • 0

#8 Fishheads

Fishheads

    Float Fishing Superstore

  • Active Members
  • 754 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 02:41 PM

ok sounds great so far I understand!

 

what I want to know is my backing going to be floating fly line of my choice? does it really matter?

 

then for my main line is it a coloured line usually too?

and is the float above the swivel so the swivel is the bobber stop? ive floated with a casting rod a few times

 

then leader is fluorocarbon of my choice?

 

You backing is not floating fly line. For fly fishing you also start your spool off with "fly line backing" and then "floating fly line".  Backing line is measured in lb test (you're looking for a 20-30lb fly line backing), where as "floating fly line" is measured in weights and floating/sinking and weight disbursement. You do not want this.   

 

Main line colour is completely up to you. They make high vis (coloured) versions and natural colours like clear, moss, and greens. Some people say hi-vis spooks fish, others don't. Some like to see their line on the surface. Personal pref.

 

You will need a "slip float stop" that is fixed to your line above the float. The float then slides between your highest placed shot and your float stop. The purpose of this is if you want to fish at 20ft, you can have a 5ft leader, and all your shot bulked at your swivel, that way when you cast you only have 5ft of line to worry about (much easier to cast). As soon as the presentation hits the water it will sink and your float will slide up the line and float all the way to the float stop (in this example 20ft).  Then your presentation (bait) will stop sinking and stay at that desired drift. When your drift is over and you start to reel in, the presentation will come up from 20 feet to 5 feet. This is hard to explain with just text, but a very effective method to get deeper in Niagara. 

 

Flurocarbon is what you want for a leader. Typically, the more $ you spend the better product you are going to get, just like anything. 


  • 0

#9 DILLIGAF?!

DILLIGAF?!

    Rainbow Trout

  • Active Members
  • 2,707 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 03:16 PM

backing is usually a braided type of line. usually used for backing before you put your main fly line. it serves as a filler. 20-30lb line is ideal as backing. you can go to any store and just asked for backing line. floating main line you can use from ordinary mono to the fancier hi vis colors of your choice. I find a lot of beginners having difficulty using ordinary mono because of the memory. I would suggest using any of the hi vis that has good memory qualities as spending time untangling your line would drain your energy. Leaders can be of any kind. you can use ordinary mono or fluoro leaders. always use lighter test leader compared to main. If you're using 10lb - 12 lb main. your leader shouldn't go higher than 6lb test. save your bobber or worst case...your rod.


  • 0

#10 artimus001

artimus001

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 122 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 03:23 PM

@Fishheads: excellent posts that help all. thank you :)


  • 0

#11 AboveAverageJoe

AboveAverageJoe

    Shiner Minnow

  • Members
  • 11 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 03:25 PM

Wow thanks everyone I will keep you all posted... maybe with a fish on my line! and does the the fluro leader need to be leader line for can it be just fluorocarbon line that doesn't say fluorocarbon leader line?

 

thanks again!


  • 0

#12 artimus001

artimus001

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 122 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 03:35 PM

what is the difference between using large diameter mono and flyline backing?


  • 0

#13 IR4J

IR4J

    Perch

  • Active Members
  • 884 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 03:46 PM

how about helping the guy out with an answer (and for all the other noobs), instead of just spamming the site?

 

Hey fella fishheads is a major contributor to not only our site here but also our fishery, they are fisherman just like you and me who look to progress the sport not profiteer off of beginners. Before commenting please take the time to think about what you are saying.

 

As for your question on the difference between mono and Dacron backing for centerpins it comes down to weight distribution. The amount of dacron needed to partially fill your spool is much lighter then the amount of mono needed. Also by distributing the weight towards the outer edge of the circumference you will have a marginally better start up speed. Lastly dacron line lasts a lifetime, monofilament breaks down over time in UV.

 

Matt


  • 0

#14 artimus001

artimus001

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 122 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 03:51 PM

Wow thanks everyone I will keep you all posted... maybe with a fish on my line! and does the the fluro leader need to be leader line for can it be just fluorocarbon line that doesn't say fluorocarbon leader line?

 

thanks again!

as far as i'm concerned, one comes on a fancy little spool, the other doesn't. if you have floro line in the weights that you need, feel confident that it can do the job, because it can.

 

as i fly fisher i gave up on overthinking and overspending years ago. i don't use fancy($$$$$) leaders or tippets. for years now i've been using the same spools of 10lb and 8lb mono for leaders, and 6lb floro for tippet. i use the same floro for float fishing. i've saved a boat lead money and still catch fish.


  • 0

#15 artimus001

artimus001

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 122 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 04:07 PM

I don't think you were spamming the site by offering personal advice, as someone who is considering gearing up for salmon/trout I'd appreciate the offer.

I wouldn't take it personally, artimus seems to have a chip on his shoulder. Aggressive and confrontational and I'm sure I'll feel the wrath for mentioning it.

:)

lol, this is aggressive and confrontational:

 

Hey fella fishheads is a major contributor to not only our site here but also our fishery, they are fisherman just like you and me who look to progress the sport not profiteer off of beginners. Before commenting please take the time to think about what you are saying.

 

you obviously missed the point where i thanked Fishheads for adding great material to this thread in this forum. that is the whole point of a forum, is it not? to post and share openly? if one wishes to make direct contact like that, is that not what a PM is for?


  • 0

#16 Guest_tossing iron_*

Guest_tossing iron_*
  • Guests

Posted 20 October 2015 - 05:01 PM

I get ya artimus. I get a kick out of these fishing shows. 10 minutes of fishing and 20 minutes of bombardment of over priced useless products. Give me a bag of shot a piece of sponge and eagle claw Lazer sharp #12s and I can land steel for a month. Nothing fancy needed.
  • 0

#17 RiverRuns

RiverRuns

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 145 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 05:25 PM

One thing to add...
I find it helpful to put a small plastic bead (the kind they use to make spinners) directly above and below the slip float. This prevents the bobber stop from sticking in the top stem of the float and the swivel from getting stuck in the bottom. If you have your shots on the main line it prevents the bottom stem of the float from continuously banging into the shot.
  • 0

#18 DILLIGAF?!

DILLIGAF?!

    Rainbow Trout

  • Active Members
  • 2,707 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 06:38 PM

when shopping for a leader. just be specific that you will use it for float fishing. if you happen to wander around fly fishing section then you might accidentally pick up fluoro leader for fly fishing...which is pretty much the same but because fly fishing stuff are just a tad more $$$. a scientific angler fluoro leader will cost you $13 at least for a 35 yrd spool. a redwing fluoro leader will cost you about $6 for about double in length. they will serve the same purpose...life like presentation of your bait. quality wise...i would say the SA leader is strong and diameter is less for a 4lb test compared to a redwing 4lb but...i can live with a much cheaper leader and still haul in fish.


  • 0

#19 DILLIGAF?!

DILLIGAF?!

    Rainbow Trout

  • Active Members
  • 2,707 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 06:39 PM

if you're able to make the right setup for your gear....from rod all the way to your bait. you can save a lot of $$$ and make everything work.


  • 0

#20 artimus001

artimus001

    Sunfish

  • Members
  • 122 posts

Posted 20 October 2015 - 06:45 PM

I get ya artimus. I get a kick out of these fishing shows. 10 minutes of fishing and 20 minutes of bombardment of over priced useless products. Give me a bag of shot a piece of sponge and eagle claw Lazer sharp #12s and I can land steel for a month. Nothing fancy needed.

 

don't get me wrong, i was bad as it could get when it can to shiny new objects as the next person.

 

altering a pair of ski boots started to open my eyes. back 10 yrs ago or so, Solomon had a boot called the XWAVE 9. it was marketed as having a carbon strip for added stiffness. in the end i found the boot too stiff, so i decided to drill out the rivet and take the strip out. what fell out was nothing more than a piece of plastic with a carbon fiber fabric impression. in the end it was nothing more then the XWAVE 8 with a rivet and a fancy piece of plastic. i could have saved myself $75 at that time.

 

be it at a fly vice, ski hill or river; money can only by so much improvement. skill, knowledge, and confidence will eclipse new shiny things every time.

 

don't even get me started on the latest and greatest must need fly tying materials, lol.


  • 0