25 replies to this topic

[Knuguy]

I have been trying float fishing a little bit. I have read some articles on line re float types and sizes. What's the advantage of using the lightest float possible? I find it hard to see how a few grams would make much diff for the size of bows normally found in rivers. If it was for panfish----perch, crappies, etc----I'd understand it. I would think that a 'bow size' fish that's biting so lightly that it won't drag hard enough to sink a float less than 10g, say, would be biting so lightly as to be virtually impossible to hook.

 

What do you experience float fishers have to say about that?  i.e Does size matter?

 

thx    

[staffman]

I think the reasoning is that smaller floats require less shot and therefore there is less chance of spooking fish. I run a 7 or 8 gram float most of the time, so I basically use the same amount of shot each time. The smallest float I've used is 6 grams so my reasoning could be off base.

[PUMP KNOWS]

It all depends on what type of waters you fish and your preference.

[Berg]

Agree with the above posts but also, I have heard that you want the fish to feel the least resistance when it takes your presentation. The fish will easily sink larger floats but you want to limit the fish's ability to detect that there's something attached to the presentation. 

 

So an 8g float would be more buoyant and have more shot attached to the line than a 4g float - the fish will feel the 4g float less and hopefully hold the presentation a tad longer, giving you more time to set the hook.

 

The same goes for float shape: you want a thin float so it slips right down through the surface and the fish feels little resistance, whereas you'd only want a thick float to counter riffles for stability. That's why floats for very slow water are called pencil floats - thin and easily submersible. 

 

At least that's my take. Hope that helps Knuguy!

[Shawarma]

The alternative is that, people get way too technical about this shyte often times. 

 

I use a 6g float because that's just what i bought when i first loaded up for steelheading and i haven't lost them all yet so i continue to use them. 

 

If you're casting further distances, you'd need more weight to help carry it forward. In addition, if it's strong currents, then again, heavier weights, bigger floats to keep your bait in the zone. 

[ChromeAddict]

I like using smaller floats and lighter setups because I find that they land softly and are easier to cast accurately. My standard float size is a 3-4 gram. I go up to 5 gram quite often, and have only found the need to go bigger than 5 a couple times. It's mostly personal preference though, I have seen guys fishing east with floats that looked to be 15-20g (and catching fish too).

[Knuguy]

Thx for the comments, guys!

 

Agree with the above posts but also, I have heard that you want the fish to feel the least resistance when it takes your presentation. The fish will easily sink larger floats but you want to limit the fish's ability to detect that there's something attached to the presentation. 

 

So an 8g float would be more buoyant and have more shot attached to the line than a 4g float - the fish will feel the 4g float less and hopefully hold the presentation a tad longer, giving you more time to set the hook.

 

That's what I have read and heard too and I'm not saying it(or you) is wrong. On one hand I find it hard to understand how a 5lb fish, say, can tell the diff between 6g and 10g, OTOH I know that a dog's, or a bear's, sense of smell is many times more sensitive that ours so---yeah---maybe they can. 

[Berg]

Thx for the comments, guys!

 

 

That's what I have read and heard too and I'm not saying it(or you) is wrong. On one hand I find it hard to understand how a 5lb fish, say, can tell the diff between 6g and 10g, OTOH I know that a dog's, or a bear's, sense of smell is many times more sensitive that ours so---yeah---maybe they can.

 

I think you will catch fish with either float. It's just a small way to improve your odds. Just another tweak. 

[Troutslayor]

[quote name="Knuguy" post="329613" timestamp="1451960789"]

I have been trying float fishing a little bit. I have read some articles on line re float types and sizes. What's the advantage of using the lightest float possible? I find it hard to see how a few grams would make much diff for the size of bows normally found in rivers. If it was for panfish----perch, crappies, etc----I'd understand it. I would think that a 'bow size' fish that's biting so lightly that it won't drag hard enough to sink a float less than 10g, say, would be biting so lightly as to be virtually impossible to hook.

What do you experience float fishers have to say about that? i.e Does size matter?

]Hey knuguy, whats more important is the ability to read your float, because if you can't read what the floats doing, the size and style doesn't really matter! Your float doesn't always sink when hit, it may rip sideways, or just tilt, it may even swirl. This skill can only be learned by time on the river, but when you get the hang of it you will catch more fish. Another thing to consider is how you set up under the float, shot size and placement is important as well. I can detail that later if you want. The key is to find a couple of float styles and focus on learning to read them in different water. Here's a little trick that can help, find a shallow run that you know has no fish and drift. Then watch what the float does when hitting bottom, or boulders etc....this can help you eliminate non bites when fishing other runs! Don't get caught up in grams etc...when you choose a float, unless your fishing still water or huge fast rivers one style of float in two sizes will cover most situations. To cover this topic in one post can't be done , so I would be happy to go into detail and give you some more tips another time. I hope this helped you and I am confident that if you keep at it those fish won't be impossible to hook!..If you have anymore questions just ask, and good luck!..
Troutslayor

[Troutslayor]

Hey knuguy, sorry butI answered your question under your post (quote),....

[Fishheads]

Most of this already got touched on:
light float: 

- less $ needed for shot, sometimes lighter floats are cheaper when compared to sizing up within the same float/ alternatives

- less spooky, In terms of casting( landing on water) and drifting (less shot)

- drops quicker with a soft hit (again, how much quicker does a 3.5g float drop than a 6g float.. well.. who knows. That could be the difference between fish of a lifetime or not)

 

big floats:

more weight so:

much further casting

more precise casting, especially if windy

quicker presentation to strike zone

less slack line from float to presentation 

 

 

of course, tones of internal and external variables... shot patterns, water conditions, wind, speed etc etc etc etc

 

I think the style of your float to suit the type of water you are fishing is maybe not more important but i guess equally as important than wondering if you should size up or down 1-2 grams.

[Troutslayor]

Let me correct an earlier post saying reading your float is more important than style, size etc....it was meant for the less experienced float fisherman, meaning not to get too hung-up on the gram size of a float, but to learn the basics such as reading a float! If your missing bites, ...picking different floats for different for different water doesn't matter!

[FrequentFlyer]

Let me correct an earlier post saying reading your float is more important than style, size etc....it was meant for the less experienced float fisherman, meaning not to get too hung-up on the gram size of a float, but to learn the basics such as reading a float! If your missing bites, ...picking different floats for different for different water doesn't matter!

 

 

going by this logic you're saying using a small float for east ditches won't affect how you bait is presented in bigger systems such as the niagara and the geen.

 

heres the basics knuguy, the more weight needed to get your bait to the strike zone, the heavier float you're going to need, thats it. no need to complicate it with different factors.  float manufactures use that ONE simple factor when determining size. keep the fluorescent top above water, if its too low, upsize, if its too high, downsize, simple easy 

[Troutslayor]

The gentleman asking this question sounded like is new to float fishing, I don't think he was talking about that river, which can be tricky to drift even for some experienced drifters. I also think this gentleman knows the fluorescent side should be up! My advice was to help this gentleman learn some basics, everyone has their own thaughts about float selection, with time experience he will developed his own way of float choice.But again, if he can't read his float (whether its a bite or a rock, float type or size won't matter!). Thanks for the response, we all have the same goal, sharing our experience and knowledge with others to catch more fish!..good luck my friend!
Troutslayor

[FrequentFlyer]

The gentleman asking this question sounded like is new to float fishing, I don't think he was talking about that river, which can be tricky to drift even for some experienced drifters. I also think this gentleman knows the fluorescent side should be up! My advice was to help this gentleman learn some basics, everyone has their own thaughts about float selection, with time experience he will developed his own way of float choice.But again, if he can't read his float (whether its a bite or a rock, float type or size won't matter!). Thanks for the response, we all have the same goal, sharing our experience and knowledge with others to catch more fish!..good luck my friend!
Troutslayor

 

 

you've misread my post on this point. but then again, you seem intent on passing on your 'superior knowledge' to notice.  Also, as you say, you think he is new to float fishing, so wth are talking advanced techniques, yes, reading the subtle hint is an advanced technique learned through experience, learn to read a river before you learn subtle hints.  because on big water, you most likely will not see a subtle hint.

[Troutslayor]

Are you serious ff, the amount of effort you put in disagreeing and trying to correct a post it seems you are the one trying to prove your "superior knowledge"...

Tossing iron, I appreciate your response and look forward to talking fishing!....thanks my freind, TS

[FrequentFlyer]

Are you serious ff, the amount of effort you put in disagreeing and trying to correct a post it seems you are the one trying to prove your "superior knowledge"...

Tossing iron, I appreciate your response and look forward to talking fishing!....thanks my freind, TS

 

 

I haven't 'corrected any of my posts in this topic, just simply wondering why you're trying to over complicate things to a relatively new float fisherman.

 

 Personally, I really don't give a rats @ss about float fishing, you can spout off all you want about swirls and whatnot, at the end of the day, you're still fishing with a bobber and bait, and matching floats with correct weights really isn't rocket science. 

 

In the end, no matter what method you prefer, whether it be be float, fly or spin, we're all trying to accomplish the same thing, get the bait into the strike zone efficiently, experiment, have some quiet fun times on the water, and hopefully catch some fish.

[Troutslayor]

You don't give a rats @ss about float fishing,!...than what are you doing running your mouth? Rocket science?....iam sure the people who do give a rats @ss about float fishing and the people who would like to learn will appreciate your clever insult!..

[FrequentFlyer]

You don't give a rats @ss about float fishing,!...than what are you doing running your mouth? Rocket science?....iam sure the people who do give a rats @ss about float fishing and the people who would like to learn will appreciate your clever insult!..

 

 

so because I don't care for a certain style of fishing means I know nothing about it....right.   Been there, done that, have the t-shirt.