swiftcurrent

I like the pattern you tied. Looking at the photo, it seems your intent is to have the fly present hook down, as you show it. But it looks like you tied the dumbbell on top of the shank. I would worry that with the dumbbell eyes tied on top of the shank, their weight may flip your fly upside down. Of course if the hook bend and point are heavy enough it may not happen. You might want to try to place the dumbells under the shank and avoid the issue. Alternately, you could position it as is and dress your fly hook up, thus making it snagless.

CK,

I respect where you're coming from, and a simple heads up that an item may have been, or is on sale someplace is a nice thing to do. But, beyond that, I think nothing else needs to be said. This is a buy and sell section and a person has every right to ask what they feel they want for an item. As buyers we can pay, choose to look else where or even bargain. Coppa has every right to even profit on shrewd buy, if that happens to be the case. The fact that you would'nt pay more then $200 for this reel is irrelevant. Ross makes a great product and its upto the purchaser to do their due diligence and decide what its worth to them. I don't think it's necessary to dissolve into this petty back and forth. Unless you know something illegal is occuring or have had a bad buying experience a particular seller I think it's unfair to hijack someone's 'buy/sell' thread with unsubstantiated allegations of wrong doing.

Just my two cents.

Had a nasty wading experience this week and went for a short swim. First time ever and I've been at it for over 20 yrs. Was not hurt and lost no gear, but could have been much worse. Won't bore everyone with the details. Bottom line is I should have used better judgement and greater concentration.

 

I'm sure there are better links but here are two that some of you may find helpful:

 

http://howtoflyfish....ding-techniques

 

http://www.orvis.com...px?subject=2846

I use what ever is handy that works for the hook size for hackle. Heron and Burnt Spey Hackle(grey on Lady C.) on the larger speys, Ringneck rump feathers (black on Akroyd and Highlander ), large Schlappen feathers stripped on one side(red on Lady Caroline/green on Highlander- very economical),  and Rhea(Freestyle spey has rhea, ring neck and schlappen).

 

Wings are Turkey(Akroyd), Bronze Mallard(LC and Hiiglander) which is pretty traditional on speys and I think a Black Bear Hair wing(Free style).

1/0 Akroyd (Var.)  D Spey

My first attempt at this fly. Kind of screwed this up by braking  the tinsel rib. Managed to salvage it in the end.

 

1/0 Lady Caroline (Var)

 

Highlander Spey (Var) size 1

 

1/0 Free Style Spey

Rolled Muddler-part 2

 

12. 13. 14.

 

12. Cut a small bundle Buck Tail for a wing, it should extend approximately to the tip of the tail. Tye it in and trim excess.

13. I apply a drop of quick drying glue to the fibers and thread. I find it makes for a more durable wing.

14. Now cut a small bundle of deer or elk hair. Not too much, I find a sparser head works better. Work out all the fuzzy guard hairs.

 

15. 16. 17.

 

12. Lay it obliquely to the hook shank and place 2 loose wraps around it, while holding it in place.

13. Now, tighten the thread tension as you draw upwards (I took this picture after I did that and came back down and around again)

14. As you do this, the deer hair should start to spin around the hook shank and stand on end. If you end up with a bare patch, just add another small bundle to the bare area and repeat the process. Lock it in place with a couple of wraps in front. You can push this back with your fingers and add a little more, repeating the process if you prefer a fuller head.

 

18. 19. 20

 

18. Now tye it off behind the bead with a couple of half hitches or a whip finish tool

19/20. Trim the head to a shape that works for you. Be careful not to trim your hackle or wing.

 

21. Pour yourself a drink, you're done.

 

21.

 

Hope this was useful.

 

 

 

 

There seemed to be some interest in this fly. I know there are some very experienced tyres’ on the board. I thought the beginners might appreciate this. I have never tried posting the tying stages before so please forgive my photo quality. There are different ways to tye this fly, this is just the way i do it.

 

 

The Rolled Muddler

1. 2. 3.

 

1. Start with a streamer hook, slipping the brass or tungsten bead on first. (This is a size 8 Timeco TMC 9395 streamer hook)

2. Tye in a 10-12 Barred Lemon Wood Duck quills as a tail

3. Next tye in some silver wire, then some gold tinsel (I used Holographic)

 

4. 5. 6.

 

4. Wrap the tinsel forward leaving a 1/4" gap he hind the brass bead and tye it off. Trim excess.

5. Now counter wrap the silver wire forward and tye it off

6. Select a Barred Lemon Wood Duck feather. Remove the fluffy stuff off the base of the feather and comb it out to expose the tip

 

7. 8. 9.

 

7. Tye in the feather tip first, making sure the outside surface (brighter side) of the feather is facing to the head of the fly. By doing this, the fibers will lay properly, angling back toward the tail

8. Comb the fibers back, trying to almost fold the feather in half over its stem

9. Start firmly wrapping the feather around, stroking back quills as you wrap. Apply 2-3 wraps, usually less is more.

 

11. 

 

10. Tye off the feather and trim stem and any excess.

 

 

 

 

 

Some down a dirty Steelhead flies: A Tube Leech and a Articulated Sculpin

 

 

 

Here is a classic trout fly, my first married wing.

 

Fontinalis Fin