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I think even if sharing knowledge on how to catch fish helps one person evolve from snagging to sport- fishing, overall it benefits the fishery.
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#326609 Breaking news: Salmon run 2015 has been cancelled.
Posted by
on 06 September 2015 - 09:35 AM
#323924 Float-fishing: 10 tips for catching more steelhead
Posted by
on 09 May 2015 - 11:48 PM
Hey guys,
I'm by no means the best trout angler but I've been around the rivers for over 25 years and I guess I've learnt a thing or two along the way. I've noticed there's a few newbies on the forum requesting tips and in the spirit of goodwill I thought I might share some tips that have helped me.
Here are my Top 10 tips for catching steelhead float fishing.
10.Give to the river
It's good Karma. Whether it's donating your time or money to your favourite association or picking up some garbage each time you fish, give and you shall receive.
9.Hire a guide
It's worth the money. What you'll learn from a knowledgeable guide will fast track you on the path to success.
8.Learn the centre pin
It takes a bit of getting used to but you'll hook and catch way more fish.
7.Pool positioning
I like to stand on a rock if I can to get a good vantage point of the drift. In general I try to position myself in such a way that I get the most natural drift possible in the areas I expect there fish to be holding, i.e. usually the top or bottom end of a pool.
6.Presentation
Holding back or trotting at the beginning of your drift can make sure the fish see your bait before the rest of your rig. Following the bubble lines with your float straight up and down can ensure you have the most natural presentation possible.
5. Right rig.
I tie my high vis mainline to my shot line via a micro swivel and then my shot line to the my leader with another micro swivel. I start with larger weight (size AB or BB) closer to top of my shot line and get smaller as a go down (no. 1 or no. 4 shot). I'm careful to match the amount of weight to the size float I'm using. My float is attached by tubing above my first weight and I'll slide it up or down above or below the top swivel depending on the depth I'm drifting. I'll use bulkier floats for faster/choppier water and longer/thinner floats for slow water. Medium bulk floats are good for most conditions. I'll also adjust my weights, for example, sliding most closer to the bottom swivel in faster water when I want the bait to get down faster. I usually use 0.20 mm diameter fluorocarbon for the leader but if conditions are clear I'll go 0.18mm or in dirtier water 0.22 mm. I also use fluorocarbon for my shot line, a thicker diameter than my leader but less than my mainline . My shot line is usually about 3-4 ft in length and my leader about 12-24 inches, again depending. I'll sometimes tie a second leader directly onto the hook of my first leader to drift 2 baits simultaneously i.e. bead/fly at the top and bag/worm/pinkie at the bottom to increase my odds at success. I like using sedge hook in sizes 8, 10, 12, 14, and 16, generally fishing smaller hooks and smaller baits in clearer conditions.
4.Right bait
I use fresh roe often brown or speckled trout roe which you can buy on-line and I use a variety of scarf colors, more natural in clearer conditions. Cotton candy pink, white and chartreuse seem to be my best producers. I generally use small roe sacks about dime sized but in other waters golf ball sized roe sacks can be most productive. I also carry many types of beads in various colours and sizes. A 6 mm peach bead is my best producer in clear waters. I also have a variety of flies, plastic and lives worms on me at all times. Chumming a pool with excess roe can stir the fish into action.
3..Adjustments
If I know I have the right presentation I generally won't try one bait for more than 5-10 drifts. This could mean changing to a different size/color roe sack or bead for instance. I make multiple adjustments to weight distribution and distance between float to bait to make sure I have that perfect drift before moving on to a different bait. Having a 'tackle tamer' with multiple pre-tied leaders helps to change baits quickly and smoothly.
2.Move
I find if a particular pool is going to produce a fish or more it usually does so early on. If you've tried a few different presentations and adjustments and no fish, move to the next spot it might just be where most of the fish are that day.
1. Location
Knowing one or two rivers very well and how they fish under various conditions may be better than river hoping and not really understanding any particular river very well. Timing runs, especially in the fall, is key. Know your flow charts (google Ontario River Data) so you can predict when the river becomes fishable after a heavy rain, just as it clears up is generally the best time to fish.
I hope this helps. It would be cool to hear your tips and please feel free to add any questions, comments, or criticisms.
Cheers.
Rick
This post has been promoted to an article
#316190 Creek Talk
Posted by
on 21 September 2014 - 08:07 AM
I see the concern with gutted fish left all over the river bank and I agree this is unacceptable but I think banning roe is not in the best interest of fisherman. Roe has produced for me at times when artificials did not. I think respect for the fish and fishery and following the rules as they are is all that is needed.
#316167 Putting the 'sport' back into 'sportfishing'
Posted by
on 20 September 2014 - 08:04 PM
Interesting to read the different opinions out there.
Personally I agree with the idea of educating people about fishing regs and ethics as a precondition to getting a fishing licence. Perhaps an on-line course like the boating exam with a marginal fee would suffice.
I think there's a widespread misconception out there that salmon don't bite once upriver. Having fished the tribs for the 25 years I can categorically tell you salmon will take various presentations from roe to various artificials (whether they do this out of instinct or aggression is another story). For example, I have witnessed many times salmon coming up from the depths of a pool to snatch roe mid-descent.
I've also noticed they are more likely to strike when they're not spooked. Unfortunately snaggers spook pools. If there were no snaggers there would be less spooked fish and more sport for everyone. Also remember, amongst the salmon there are browns and later steelhead, why give up the opportunity and let the snaggers win the day?
I believe there is much that can be done to improve the fishery and I think education is the key.
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