goodentight
Steelhead Master
I took a couple minutes here to go over 2 essential changes I make for steelheading in negative temperatures.
1. Keeping your line off the water. If you have winter steelheaded before, you know that if it's negative out, your line is going to get wet/ice. And you know that if your line is going to get wet/ice, your eyes are going to get wet/ice. And you know that if your eyes are going to get wet/ice... you're going to have a bad time. There are a couple ways to avoid this. One is to Vaseline (or some other type of lube) up your eyes. This definitely helps, but doesn't always avoid the problem in it's entirety. Here is what else you can do. I started this last year and it really does make a difference if you can pull it off. Pick yourself up some stem-through floats. Basically, a two part float. The wood/cork, and a stem. These are great because they aren't "fixed". You get to make the shape of a float you want.
See my diagram below. the green indicates where I have tubing. Instead of a traditional 2 tubes per float rig, all you need is a third piece of tube. One piece on both ends of the float (securing the float in place where you want it) and I have a third at the opposing end (if you have tube at the end of the stems you eliminate a ton of "birds nests" with false hook sets and retrieves - simply, you take away a nook between line and stem that the line can get stuck in).
Essentially what you are doing is increasing the height of the break point of the top of the float to the water. Now when you cast, if you keep your line tight, the line has to work a lot harder to bow and touch the water. Maximizing the straightest line from your rod tip to your float can eliminate any line from touching the water at all. Obviously by changing the shape of a float, you are making a compromise. The float is not going to be as responsive as a traditional shape, but in my eyes the payoff is worth it. Adjust your shot pattern to compensate the new float shape and you will be in business.
2. Shot pattern to Crush the Slush. We are all aware of the traditional shot patterns that the majority of us use when we don't have slush to work with. Scrap those because they are probably not going to get you through the slush, and if your presentation isn't getting through the slush, the steel aren't going to see it. And if the steel aren't going to see your presentation, well... you know. Here is what I do. Size up your float, and don't be scared. If you traditionally run a 4g float, try an 8g. If you traditionally run a 6g float, try a 10g etc.. You are going to need extra buoyancy to make up for the additional weight you are about to add. Go pick yourself up either some Buck Shot or a pencil shot and stack up your line right above your swivel. This way when you cast, this mass amount of weight in one spot is going to shoot through the slush. From your swivel down, apply shot as you would for any other normal presentation. Of course, vary this style to fit your style however it is.
If you accommodate either of these rig alterations (let alone both)... you're gunna have a good time
(I hope you like my paint drawings and these help)
1. Keeping your line off the water. If you have winter steelheaded before, you know that if it's negative out, your line is going to get wet/ice. And you know that if your line is going to get wet/ice, your eyes are going to get wet/ice. And you know that if your eyes are going to get wet/ice... you're going to have a bad time. There are a couple ways to avoid this. One is to Vaseline (or some other type of lube) up your eyes. This definitely helps, but doesn't always avoid the problem in it's entirety. Here is what else you can do. I started this last year and it really does make a difference if you can pull it off. Pick yourself up some stem-through floats. Basically, a two part float. The wood/cork, and a stem. These are great because they aren't "fixed". You get to make the shape of a float you want.
See my diagram below. the green indicates where I have tubing. Instead of a traditional 2 tubes per float rig, all you need is a third piece of tube. One piece on both ends of the float (securing the float in place where you want it) and I have a third at the opposing end (if you have tube at the end of the stems you eliminate a ton of "birds nests" with false hook sets and retrieves - simply, you take away a nook between line and stem that the line can get stuck in).
Essentially what you are doing is increasing the height of the break point of the top of the float to the water. Now when you cast, if you keep your line tight, the line has to work a lot harder to bow and touch the water. Maximizing the straightest line from your rod tip to your float can eliminate any line from touching the water at all. Obviously by changing the shape of a float, you are making a compromise. The float is not going to be as responsive as a traditional shape, but in my eyes the payoff is worth it. Adjust your shot pattern to compensate the new float shape and you will be in business.
2. Shot pattern to Crush the Slush. We are all aware of the traditional shot patterns that the majority of us use when we don't have slush to work with. Scrap those because they are probably not going to get you through the slush, and if your presentation isn't getting through the slush, the steel aren't going to see it. And if the steel aren't going to see your presentation, well... you know. Here is what I do. Size up your float, and don't be scared. If you traditionally run a 4g float, try an 8g. If you traditionally run a 6g float, try a 10g etc.. You are going to need extra buoyancy to make up for the additional weight you are about to add. Go pick yourself up either some Buck Shot or a pencil shot and stack up your line right above your swivel. This way when you cast, this mass amount of weight in one spot is going to shoot through the slush. From your swivel down, apply shot as you would for any other normal presentation. Of course, vary this style to fit your style however it is.
If you accommodate either of these rig alterations (let alone both)... you're gunna have a good time
(I hope you like my paint drawings and these help)
