Float rod questions

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rayray519

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Aug 18, 2012
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When choosing a new float rod, what does the IM6, IM8 .. "IM" represent? I would like to get a 11 or 13ft float rod, to use with a decent spinning reel (until I can master the proper presentation methods in rivers).

Any suggestions on which rod would be best?? Is Medium/fast best, brands?

Thanks,
 
the IM6 is like a noodle, the IM8 is a pretty decent rod with a faster tip than the IM6. Using it with a spinning reel maybe the IM6 would be the better option as it is more forgiving.
 
looking to build a custom float rod any suggestions on a blank that wont require me selling my left arm, have heard good things about the rainshadow? also any suggestions and info on a custom rod builder would be much appreciated.

tight lines, Bug_Slinger
 
Bug_Slinger said:
looking to build a custom float rod any suggestions on a blank that wont require me selling my left arm, have heard good things about the rainshadow? also any suggestions and info on a custom rod builder would be much appreciated.

tight lines, Bug_Slinger
The batson rainshadow XST/IST blanks are probably your best bang for your buck. The anglers roost ones have been becoming more popular as well. I know a couple of buiders. What are you looking to spend?
 
not sure on the cost of building custom rods as this would be my first one but would be looking to spend in the ball park of $500/600.
 
Bug_Slinger said:
looking to build a custom float rod any suggestions on a blank that wont require me selling my left arm, have heard good things about the rainshadow? also any suggestions and info on a custom rod builder would be much appreciated.

tight lines, Bug_Slinger
.
 
Kingsway tackle in Guelph does custom work for reasonable prices, and I think they stock rainshadow blanks! $500 or so will get you a pretty decent rainshadow.
 
yoda just high jacked the shit out of this thread hahaha

yoda, a good build is going to be more than 500. you will be extremely happy with a loomis, st croix or raven. all great rods.

to the original poster- "Im" rating is suppose to be relative to the graphite module count. however company's like streamside state im8 and the rod still feels heavy and wimpy. where a raven im8 will be a totally different feeling my rod. since your using a spinning reel and not a centerpin you will likely get away with a stiffer,faster action. for a long rod recommend a raven rv9( with the 13 ft length , if you go with any cheaper of a rod its going to be heavy as shit), one thing to consider is that the length really isnt necessary at all on a spinning reel, it realy is just added weight and awkwardness. my spinning out fit for salmon and steelhead is a fenwick hmx 9'6 and have never blown a leader because of the length and that rod is only 100 bucks. you dont need a long rod , i suggest you watch fishing with rod on youtube, he uses a 9ft float rod on ocean run steelhead and bull trout and fairly light line with no problems.
 
I thought since he doesnt have the freedom of changing the drag in a split second with a centerpin a softer rod would be better for protecting the leader with sudden runs. Not speaking from experience since ive only used pins but it seems logical to me.
 
According to some articles on the net (I Googled "modulus rating of fishing rods") IM8, IM6 etc. are ratings put on rods by manufacturers based on the # of fibres used in the construction process, and the resultant flex/characteristics of the rod. Apparently, there is no industry standard; an IM8 from one manufacturer may differ significantly in performance and quality than an IM8 from another....bottom line...stick to reputable brands
 
Modulus is really only a measurement of stiffness. With that said, when it comes to fishing rods, you can achieve stiffness in a few different ways.

1. Use a higher modulus material that is naturally stiffer – Comparatively, IM8 graphite should be stiffer than IM6 graphite given that equal amounts of the material are compared.

2. Increasing blank diameter dramatically increases the level of stiffness

You can build a rod blank out of lower/intermediate modulus graphite (IM6 for example) and increase the blank diameter to achieve a level of stiffness equal to or greater than that of a blank made of high modulus material. With this taken into account, rods made of lower modulus graphite (to achieve X amount of stiffness) are usually heavier in weight than one built with a higher modulus material (with the same level of stiffness). Weight is a deterrent to performance (ie. tip speed and tip recovery). Conversely, rods made of lower modulus graphite have better elasticity and elongation properties and are less brittle than their higher modulus counterparts.

You can go the other way and make a slow rod out of a high modulus material by changing the blank taper.


As for the other question, “what should I look for?” Honestly, it’s whatever you can afford and feels good in your hands.
 
I would get ahold of Kingsway tackle in Guelph Tom is the guru I rod building and he's very informative
 
So, I went into a local tackle store in KW, and held the IM-6 13ft raven. The rip was very fast light. Would like a little bit less noodle... or am I wrong here? Should I be after more bend?
 
Get a raven Im8 14' its an all around good rod I use one and I have had no problem with it , handles the big and small water no problem has plenty of backbone and a nice soft tip plus their warranty is good too
 

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