Line Slap

[analasco]

Don't know if this is the right section, but here goes...

I just spooled my first spinning reel and the line is slapping just below the first guide when I reel it in. I'm using 15lb .381mm flurocarbon as my main line. Now my reel is rated for 14lb .35mm but the guy behind the counter at BPS said I could away with it. So what could cause the slapping and how do I correct it?

 

[hightechdecks]

What is the rod rated for in line wt

 

[NigelBond]

I dont see how the rating of the rods line weight would affect this. My guess is that his reel is too big for eyes on his rod and the rotor is whiping that line around like a skipping rope. Or maybe he's reeling really fast with no tension on the line.
Did this happen while you were spooling with no tension?

 

[Brian]

Whats the reason for having the 15# floro as your mainline? why not use some mono and a floro leader?
My school of thought is that the 15# floro is a bit thick and stiff, so when reeling it spins a little wider than the reel's spool and slaps the rod...Try respooling with 12# mono; the mono will be a little more supple and would not cause this...
Try it and let me know if that is the problem...

Another question...whats the reason for 15# line? I try not to overload my rods...My medium rods that take up to 14# usually get 12# line max...
Depends...what are you fishing for?

 

[staffman]

I believe that line slap is caused by placing the first guide too far from the reel, and thus you will have to live with it.

 

[analasco]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm just getting back into fishing after a 28-year 'hiatus' so I'm basically new to all of this.

My rod weight is 12 lbs (again, I was told that getting a 15# line was OK). I'm not fishing for anything specifically - going to Bob's Lake in Westport/Burridge and there's no info on what's in the lake so I thought I'd be ready for anything. I have another reel set with 8# mono and a 10# fluro leader. I thought I'd try the 15# fluro as my main and tie it off with a snap swivel just to see how it feels and for extra stealth as the water is (I'm told) gin clear - I couldn't find 14# fluro so I went for the closest number.

I did find out that the slapping is caused by the guide's placement and circumference so there's nothing to be done there, unless I add a new guide. Would it still slap with 12# line though as the rod is rated 12#? As long as the slap doesn't really diminish casting or reeling I don't mind it.

 

[sunny14]

You didn't say what make the Rod was. However I learned a long time ago that if the Rod doesn't have a Minimum of 6 Guides, don't buy it. For a 6-1/2 Foot to 7 Foot Rod 6 Guides would be the Absolute Minimum.

I think in your case the First Guide is too far from the Reel. I don't think the Line weight has a lot to do with it.

I have one BIG Set Up that I use for Pike and Muskie. BIG Cardinal Reel, 7 Foot Rod, 7 Guides, 20 Lb Fireline only, Rod is Rated for 14 or 15 Lb Test (Forgot which). Works like a charm for TEN Years now. 30Lb Pike so far is the biggest test it's had.

If you can use yours the way it is the problem is solved. Personally? It would drive me NUTS trying to put up with it.

Good Fishin' Allen!!

Rick

 

[PainInTheBass]

I have gotten into building rods, and from what I understand, that has to do with a combination of the size of the guides, and positioning along the rod. The rod could likely better contain the line with another guide, with the choker guides closer to the face of the reel. Tthis will have some impact on your casting distance, but will not have too large an effect on your fish fighting ability.

As far as line ratings go, they are all only recommendatins by the manufacturer in relation to how they are positioning the rod in the line up, and for the intended uses. A rod manufacturer may recommend very light line for ultralight techniques because the two go together, but that does not mean you cannot use a 10 lb braid instead. Another example: how many people use 50 lb test braid with rods rated for 10-17lb test line? It is all a recommendation to help direct potential buyers into selecting components that should work well together. More important with line selection is the desired technique, target species, and lure size.

 

[sunny14]

I have gotten into building rods, and from what I understand, that has to do with a combination of the size of the guides, and positioning along the rod. The rod could likely better contain the line with another guide, with the choker guides closer to the face of the reel. Tthis will have some impact on your casting distance, but will not have too large an effect on your fish fighting ability.

As far as line ratings go, they are all only recommendatins by the manufacturer in relation to how they are positioning the rod in the line up, and for the intended uses. A rod manufacturer may recommend very light line for ultralight techniques because the two go together, but that does not mean you cannot use a 10 lb braid instead. Another example: how many people use 50 lb test braid with rods rated for 10-17lb test line? It is all a recommendation to help direct potential buyers into selecting components that should work well together. More important with line selection is the desired technique, target species, and lure size.

"PainInTheBass": Agree 100%!!!! The Reel below AG 5500 C3, is my Newest "Big Fish" Reel for a Bait Casting Reel (I Retired my 25 Year Old Penn 209) It's rated at 12/205. I'm using 25Lb. Fireline on a 6'-6" Ugly Stick Rated as Medium. I prefer using it compared to the Spinning Outfit mentioned above.

35/40 Muskie (Live Release) on a Large Mepps Musky Killer was no problem at all. 15/20 Minutes to get him in the boat.

Rick