Loop to loop connection

[Venom01]

Hi everyone, longtime lurker of these forums, first time poster.
I'm getting more and more in fly fishing and find it to be a little difficult to start even though I took a class , but that's part of the fun in starting right?

Anyway my question to you more seasoned anglers is about the loop to loop connections. I have been reading about this and I think for quick changes on the river this is what I want to start using.

Is it better to buy the connection. That slides onto the butt end of your float line or to just tie your line into a loop directly?

I found a video on YouTube on how to tie a loop but I want to know if the ones you buy have any advantage over that?

Sorry about the noob question but hey you gotta ask or you'll never know right?

Thanks everyone.

 

[Kit]

I use loop to loop I tie my tippet to my fly line with a nail knot, then a non slip loop on the other end then with my leader I tie a non slip loop on the other end. then feed though and pull tight. if you break a leader its way easier to tie a non slip loop rather then a nail knot in windy conditions so you can get back to swinging faster. Trick is to make the loops as small as possible

 

[Venom01]

What do you think of the loops you can buy and glue to the end of your fly line?
I know you can buy leaders with a loops already at the end. When it comes to tippet to the leader I just use a surgeon knot.

I was thinking it would just be easier to scale down the leaders real quick on the river.

I'm still learning here

 

[JDean]

The add-on braided loops are great. Easy to install and very reliable. You install and then use a leader with a loop already to attach to the braided loop. Then double surgeon knot for your tippet material. If your leader does not have a loop just make a perfection loop and attach to braided loop.

This loop to loop make switching leaders a breeze when on the stream

Hope this helps

JD

 

[Cody309]

Tying your own loops works fine - I've done it plenty of times. But as Kit says, the key is making them as small as possible. If you're not careful, they can become a bit messy. When I can, I prefer to connect my fly-line to leader using a nail knot.

I also have a multi-tip line that has built in loops, and that does make things quite easy, but I've never tried the loops you glue on.

 

[MuskieBait]

I used the braided loop that you can purchase, but I actually don't like them too much...especially installing them on the fly line with the heat shrink tube. That piece of heat shrink is stiff while the fly line is more supple, and in the end the edge of the heat shrink tube starts to wear away and cut into the fly line. Eventually, it broke off at that connection.

This is what I do now. I simply nail knot a piece of 30-40lb mono to the end of the fly line, much like you would when attaching a leader. MAKE SURE TO TIE ON THE NAIL KNOT FIRST. Then, I tie a perfection loop on the end of that mono. Most loop end fly leader that you purchase commercially use the perfection loop. Keep this connection as short as possible. I like a distance of 1-2" from the nail knot to perfection loop. I've used this connection for fly lines from 3-wt to 10-wt...and it has held just fine.

I only need to do this once with a new fly line...and then it is durable enough to last the lifetime of the fly line.

 

[Kit]

Glue helps but not much, not really worth the money for it, can go to buying more flies. Its more for strength enforcement, If your nail knot is tied properly to your fly line you wont have any issues with it coming undone or sliding off.

I too use a braided tippet. The leader with break before the tippet breaks.

 

[rich_ace_G]

I use loop to loop on centerpinning but only from my shotline - leader. Mainline - shot line is still swivel. very easy change up.

 

[Venom01]

This is what I do now. I simply nail knot a piece of 30-40lb mono to the end of the fly line, much like you would when attaching a leader. MAKE SURE TO TIE ON THE NAIL KNOT FIRST. Then, I tie a perfection loop on the end of that mono. Most loop end fly leader that you purchase commercially use the perfection loop. Keep this connection as short as possible. I like a distance of 1-2" from the nail knot to perfection loop. I've used this connection for fly lines from 3-wt to 10-wt...and it has held just fine.

I only need to do this once with a new fly line...and then it is durable enough to last the lifetime of the fly line.


I was actually thinking about that but wasnt sure if it would work. I'm going to practice tying a few loops before trying to put one on the fly line so I'll have a better chance of not messing up. I'll also have to find some tougher mono as the heaviest I use us 8 lb when I'm smallmouth fishing.

Very grateful for the replies everyone. Thank you

 

[[email protected]]

loop to loop is one of the most easiest/strongest ways to connect your fly line to your leader, the braided loops are horrible imo, i had one slip off the end of my fly line as i was trying to land a fish, lost fish, fly and leader. I either buy the fly line with the wielded loops or tie my own loop to the end

 

[Christopheraaron]

I usually just tie my own loops, but I suspect a properly attached braided loop will work just as well. My favourite knot for leader/line is the albright knot, strong and easy to tie.

 

[Jacklake]

The mono for the nail knot and first loop should be about .021" dia. or 25# test at least to carry the momentum from the line to the leader. Cheap mono is fine as it is not the weakest part of the system. The 'permanent' mono cannot be finer than the butt of your leader.
Also check out welding loops at the end of your fly line with a bit of heat-shrink tubing (later discarded). Here is the video. The melted part does not have to be as long as Peter makes it. You can also use a lighter, candle, or roll the tube across the top of a 60W bulb, but you have to be careful not to burn the line. If you do, just cut it off and try again, you only lose about 4" of line.

The slip-on braided loops are sometimes MORE flexible than either the line or the butt of the leader and this can lead to casting problems. As well, the braid retains water which sprays all over the place on the cast - possibly spooking fish.

 

[Venom01]

The mono for the nail knot and first loop should be about .021" dia. or 25# test at least to carry the momentum from the line to the leader. Cheap mono is fine as it is not the weakest part of the system. The 'permanent' mono cannot be finer than the butt of your leader.
Also check out welding loops at the end of your fly line with a bit of heat-shrink tubing (later discarded). Here is the video. The melted part does not have to be as long as Peter makes it. You can also use a lighter, candle, or roll the tube across the top of a 60W bulb, but you have to be careful not to burn the line. If you do, just cut it off and try again, you only lose about 4" of line.

The slip-on braided loops are sometimes MORE flexible than either the line or the butt of the leader and this can lead to casting problems. As well, the braid retains water which sprays all over the place on the cast - possibly spooking fish.


This I gotta try. I got some old fly line to practice with. Thank you for that video. Huge help.

 

[Venom01]

Where can you find clear shrunk tube? I tried home depot and Rona but the people there tell me it doesn't exist.

 

[Kit]

Hobby shop maybe. Or eBay.