Spey Clave- questions

[Madriverfisher]

http://vimeo.com/70431251

 

[DaveC]

I want to try the airflo Rage line. Heard good things about it.

 

[AaronKrick]

I like the sounds of skagit.

So if i want to launch it really far I want a big head? Say 40 ft?

 

[coldfeet]

a guy let me try one at a river today, wasn't as easy as I thought. I imagine some learning curve involved, a couple of days practice and I could make a decent cast

 

[AaronKrick]

What does the grains thing mean? I.e. 525+25

 

[swiftcurrent]

[SIZE=12pt]This is a bit tricky but here are the basics.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]All lines are actually measured in 'grains' in North America and 'grams' in Europe (1 grain = 0.06479891 grams). [/SIZE]
[SIZE=12pt]Regular fly lines[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] are pretty standardized: This chart is in grains and applies to the first 30' of head.[/SIZE]


Size Weight(grains) \Tolerance
1--- 60---- 54-66
2--- 80----74-86
3--- 100--- 94-106
4--- 120-- 114-126
5--- 140-- 134-146
6--- 160-- 152-168
7--- 185-- 177-193
8--- 210--202-218
9--- 240--230-250
10-- 280--270-290
11-- 330--318-342
12-- 380--368-392











[SIZE=12pt]Spey lines and Heads[/SIZE][SIZE=12pt] are also measured in grains, but the number to grain range is different and not as standardized as fly lines. With all the different lengths and shapes of Spey lines/heads, their weight can really vary. There weights are substantially heavier then their fly line counterparts because of the extra load requirements for the different style of Spey casts. For example, a 7wt Scandi head weighs 425-450grains, but a 7wt Skagit weighs 510-570 grains. Two different style casts, two different weight requirements. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]As a result, regular fly rods are numbered by their standardized fly line wt (i.e.: 5wt, 6wt, 7wt,). Because of the variance in Spey lines/heads, Spey rods are often designated by the grain range that is ideal to load but not overload a rod.[/SIZE]

 

[DaveC]

I think its always a good idea to have an experienced fly shop help you with the proper line requirements based on your experience and your rods rating. Being new to spey myself, I can see how important it is. Some reputable shops have demo lines/heads you can try before you buy. It was suggested to me as a beginner to go with a slightly higher grain weight skagit, but still within the rods rating to help load the rod better...so far that's working perfect.

 

[swiftcurrent]

Excellent suggestion, that's what I would do if I was just starting out as well. As for a head length recommendation, the general rule is that your head and should be about 3X the rod length to cast friendly.

 

[RobH]

We Have Rio kits at the shop and the river right beside us. Bring your rod up and I can fine tune it lickity splitly.

 

[swiftcurrent]

I should mention that the 3X applies to the length of Skagit heads plus the sink tip length you attatch to it.

 

[coldfeet]

See I knew I should have stayed in school, you need a degree just to remember how to get setup for spey. :razz: Traditional skagit scandi grains- my brain hurts. What are the advantages of each type? I think someone mentioned with traditional you have to strip in again before casting? If you use a switch what do you use for setup? Is that another type of specific line?

 

[W_boughner]

See I knew I should have stayed in school, you need a degree just to remember how to get setup for spey. :razz: Traditional skagit scandi grains- my brain hurts. What are the advantages of each type? I think someone mentioned with traditional you have to strip in again before casting? If you use a switch what do you use for setup? Is that another type of specific line?

a traditional is a long belly line that you pull out the length of line you are going to use and you don't strip it in .. A skaget is 20-33' head with very little taper for shooting out 100' and you have to strip it in before you cast again ..a scandi is a 20-33' head with a long taper attached to is for a more delicate presentation than the skaget that you can shoot out a swell but you can't get the distance of a skaget...got a switch rod you can use traditional lines but you have to up weight by 2 wts (eg:7wt switch =9-10wt line) depending on the rod and how you like yo feel the rod load.. If a part of this is incorrect m sure someone will correct it

 

[remyboy1]

coldfeet..keep it simple..a long belly line will cast well-you don't have to strip in to get your fly back into the water..personally I have rio windcutter 2..don get caught upp in heads, lines, and all that crap...if you come to the fly ouring you can try my rod with the line I speak of..you will roll cast across county borders.

 

[swiftcurrent]

While I enjoy casting long belly lines, I don't agree that there always the best choice. In my opinion, Long bellies may be the hardest to learn with, but if you learn, you will be able to cast anything. In fact, Skagit is the easiest to learn with, that’s a big part of their popularity. While I think the multitude of line options can make getting started confusing, it also provides tremendous variability to help suite different casting styles and particular fishing needs.

As previously stated on this thread, the best thing to do is to try someone else’s rod setup first. Learn the basics. A few members have said they wouldn’t mind contributing a little of their time, me included. Beyond that, most fly shops offer beginner lessons and they’re worth the investment. In fact, in the long run, it would probably save you some cash that you may waste on stuff you don’t need or like.

When I started, I took a few lessons with Rick Whorwood (http://www.flycastingschool.com/ ); he’s an excellent guide and Spey instructor. I have also heard only good things about Peter Charles (http://www.hooked4life.ca/ ) . They both have their own websites. The fly shop in Guelph stocks skandi and Skagit head kits. Ray is a great guy. You can take them down to the river and try them out on your rod, no guessing required.

 

[DaveC]

I agree with you totally...i also took lessons with Rick Whorwood. I too have done buisness with Ray at the first Cast in Guelph. Rob Heal at Wilsons will also set you up and offers lessons as well. To me....the best way is to learn from a pro. You dont want to start out with someone elses bad habits. The try before you buy is the way to go. Who wants to buy something that does not suit your rod or your style....once you have the basics down you can practice and fine tune things. For myself if i blow a cast...i know it right away and why. If i had not taken lessons you would never know what or why your doing something wrong....best investment ever. Rick or Rob are both great instructors and will help you understand the lines and have you casting in no time.

 

[coldfeet]

I'd be leaning towards Rob, not only because he has the best profile pic of all time and he's truly an ambassador to the sport but he's a heck of a nice guy. I actually bumped into Peter Charles on a river last year, also a gentleman and very knowledgeable and from what I gather a decent instructor. Casting a spey reminds me of using the bo staff

 

[swiftcurrent]

Rob is a great guy. But regardless who you go with in the end, you are definatley not going to regret getting into it. Big or small, its a hell of a lot of fun!

 

[Madriverfisher]

Swift what reel is that

 

[swiftcurrent]

Its a Hardy Perfect 3 5/8" I just got last week.

 

[coldfeet]

sweet looking work on that rod too