steelhead help

[fenwickfisher]

hey everyone im new to the forum and new to steelheading ive only been targeting them for about two years my problem is i have pretty much been trying to learn on my own as i have no friends who are interested in fishing except for bass fishing and that sort of thing i guess what im looking for is someone to take me out on an east trib one day and show me a thing or two im in oshawa and can travel somewhat if anybody is interested in sharing some of their knowledge with me id be greatful

 

[fenwickfisher]

is it something i said lol.... so many views but not a single reply lets make some conversation here so i can learn something haha

 

[Graham Bristow]

It's likely your just your technique.. you should be getting at least 1 or 2 most days out providing the conditions are good.. Watch how the other guys set up their rigs and how they run their floats.. Make sure your bait is in the strike zone, keep it there as long as possible and make sure it's moving at the right speed and you'll catch fish..

If no one will take you out I may be able to take you out one day during the week over the next 2 weeks...email me..

http://www.anglersinternational.com/shotting.html

 

[Shmogley]

hey listen man i dont know squat about the east end.
but if you show me a couple of spots ill come out and show you what i do to catch fish..
not that im the most pro but im sure we will get into a couple fish if they are there

would be fun, PM me

 

[Graham Bristow]

I usually say it's not one big thing that will make the difference it's usually a bunch of little things. There's not really any difference in technique between east rivers and most Southern Ontario rivers, just make sure you adjust for the conditions on the river your on. Adjust your hook size, leader diameter and maybe your bait according to the conditions and then run the shot pattern above and that should help.. .

 

[fenwickfisher]

ok so when im buying shot what size range should i be looking at

 

[AaronKrick]

ok so when im buying shot what size range should i be looking at

As small as you can find to half the size of your pinky and lots in between

 

[Graham Bristow]

I run all 1 size either AB or BB sized shots and stager them so they go from close near the float to further apart as they get closer to the bait, it does the same as going from large shot to small shot as seen in the diagram except you don't need to have 5 different sized shots... I place the, so they might start 2 " apart near the float and end up 7" to 10" apart near the tippet, I use the Sure Shot or Raven shot brands.. Personally i like the Sure Shots the best.

 

[smh307]

It's likely your just your technique.. you should be getting at least 1 or 2 most days out providing the conditions are good.. Watch how the other guys set up their rigs and how they run their floats.. Make sure your bait is in the strike zone, keep it there as long as possible and make sure it's moving at the right speed and you'll catch fish..

If no one will take you out I may be able to take you out one day during the week over the next 2 weeks...email me..

http://www.anglersinternational.com/shotting.html

Graham,

I'm curious in this setup won't it take longer to see the float react to a take? Because the float will only react once it catches up to the fish and the line becomes tight. I actually have not float fished (just reading about it for the first time), but have fly fished with nymphs and I'm wondering if below the water a flyline -> thingamabobber -> splitshot -> weighted-nymph actually pretty much looks like this as it drifts forward i.e. the nymph ahead of the weight and if this is the most effective way or not.

 

[W_boughner]

This set up is the most affective setup for float fishing weather it be roe, bead, nymph, minnow, or soft plastics .. Most feeding fish will move to your bait then move back to there previous spot and that will have a immediate response with your float

 

[Brian]

That's why it is important to reduce as much slack line as you can between your rod tip and your float. Keep it tight.

 

[nerosrevenge]

Great advice guys. I am new to Steelhead fishing as well and these explanations are very helpful.

What size floats do you guys generally carry?

Steve

 

[staffman]

I carry 6 gram to 11 gram floats and I usually start with an 8 gram float.

 

[W_boughner]

Wow that's big the only time I go over 6 I'd the niagara !! I usefully use 2-4 gr drennin pole floats with long drops

 

[miles]

I run 11s to 20s, normally a 15g. if I hit the small water i throw on a 6 or 8. Now if your fishing ditches a even smaller floats can be used, when I do go below a 5g I just use big indicators.

 

[W_boughner]

Do you typically fish the niagara or the big watershed of Erie .st Clair , Huron or Georgian bay ??

 

[fishermandan420]

6 - 10 g normally.

 

[Graham Bristow]

Graham,

I'm curious in this setup won't it take longer to see the float react to a take? Because the float will only react once it catches up to the fish and the line becomes tight. I actually have not float fished (just reading about it for the first time), but have fly fished with nymphs and I'm wondering if below the water a flyline -> thingamabobber -> splitshot -> weighted-nymph actually pretty much looks like this as it drifts forward i.e. the nymph ahead of the weight and if this is the most effective way or not.

That's a good observation and for the most part you are correct that it does take longer for the float to react. But if you use roe or live worms or anything more natural with scent the fish tend to hold on long enough for the float to go down.. For flies and artificial baits I tend to use less of a curve and set fast.. Also any sideways movement or downward movement by the fish will signal a strike and I set hard a fast at even the lightest tap or tilt of the float. This angle in the picture is better then the opposite angle where you're dragging the bait with the float - that's my opinion. If you are dragging the bait with the float chances are the bait is moving to fast and at an unnatural speed for the fish so having that forward angle means you need to hold the float back a bit which then slows the bait down.. . Just decide for yourself how much is to much of an arc for presenting the bait at the right depth and speed based on the current conditions. Also the slower the water the less of an arc or curve I put in the line and I'll try for a perfect vertical presentation in slow water and the faster the water the more of an arc I'll try to achieve..

In my opinion most fly guys indicator fish poorly for steelhead and browns because they don't consider the speed of the current at the bottom and don't mend or correct the indicator accordingly like the float guys do.. I think it's part of the reason why most fly guys don't out fish float guys, even if both guys are using flies for bait. Just something to think about next time you're out......I teach this when I do my nymphing and fly fishing for steelhead classes and often teach this to guys when I'm guiding them. I also often use a different angled presentation for better and faster detection with an indicator, or a completely different presentation that has no indicator at all.

 

[Graham Bristow]

I like to use 4.2 to 6.2 gram FM Raven floats or the Drennan Loafer float .. It all depends on the conditions, for most conditions I prefer the Raven floats.. In slower or low clear water I'll go to the loafer float or if wind is pushing the float around a lot I'll go with the Drennan loafer and weigh it down so only the orange tip is out of the water so it doesn't get blown around as much...

 

[fenwickfisher]

thanks for the replies everyone this has really been helpful. I did not realize this would become such a hot topic lol will definitely be putting some of this knowledge to the test in the morning. Thanks again everyone!