Flourocarbon Leaders for Big Pike/Musky

I'm looking into replacing the titanium leaders that I currently use with flourocarbon high strength (150#), for cost (I'm going to buy a spool and tie my own) , visibility, and the sake of the fish. What worries me is the abrasion resistance, and the longevity of the leaders themselves.

I use #30 braided line as my main line for pike/musky, planning on using a ball bearing swivel, then flouro leader (~18"), then a snap of some kind to my lure

Does anyone have any experience with flouro leaders for musky and pike? Any recommendations as far as using swivels, or snaps?

Are these things good until they start to get marks on them, or does the flouro line weaken over time due to UV, stretch, ect? I can throw on a titanium leader and use it until I lose it from a snag, or drop it off the side of my boat

Or is this just a bad move? I know i can rely on a titanium leader, but what I don't like is how it inhibits the chance of getting that chance bite from another species such as an eye or trout, and I dont like that they cost 10 bucks a pop. I can get a spool of berkly prospec 33 yds of 150# test for $70 and $20 worth of snaps ans swivels which will do me for 50 or so leaders. But I dont want to spend that cash and end up not using it, so I'm in a bit of a pickle

Thanks in advance for your help

Up your Braid to 60 and go with 40 lb fluoro . Seaguar is a bit expensive but considered the best.

40 lbs for musky and pike? I can understand upping my braid but wouldnt 40 lbs flouro have too small a diameter to be reliable against those jaws?

Fwiw, I've rarely used leaders, and can count on one hand the # of pike/walleye I've lost because they cut the line. It happens maybe 1% of the time, if that. That's including all the times I was fishing C&K (catch and keep) with minnows, and the letting the pike take the bait very deep.

If someone was frequently losing fish to cut line, I would be checking their connections, knots, swivels and split rings.

I'm not saying you shouldn't use leaders, just offering some food for thought.

It's not fun for the angler or the fish when it bites off a giant lure and swims away, so can't say I am against the use of leaders.

Adding my 2 cents here. I have used the berkley double knot that has withstand toothy bites better than straight mono. then i tried the toothy knottable wire leaders made by cortland they use for fly fishing.but are expensive...then found this...$3 @ amazon.

I've lost many pike on straight braid... use a flouro leader! Braid knicks up real easy and if you get a pike inhale a bait your going to lose it.

I tie my own leaders using Seaguar Blue Label 30lb test, and SPRO swivels and clips....Never snapped a pike or musky off with this set up. I usually tie my leaders anywhere from 12" to 18" and use the palomar knot to tie the line to the swivels and snaps. It's tough to get that knot tight using 30lb flouro so you may need to wet the line and grab the tag end with pliers to get those knots tight to the swivels.

100# should be good, the heavier the better...don't cheap out on leaders,Ive had big pike slice through 30# before,Big fish=big gear...

For pike I run 50lb flouro and musky 80+, They arent scared of the big line so why risk it.

Good advice IR4J.
I used 60 Lbs on my main and 80 Lbs Fluro from Seaguar for Musky and pike with swivel bearing and snap swivel. That set up so far never put me down by loosing my lure.

15lb wire leader on a multi-jointed lure is a good combo. 7 strand wire leader about 6inch is all you need. just don't horse it. I caught 30lb musky on them no problem. If you can get them to bite on black heavy leaders...titanium leaders will do just fine. Musky and pike don't care about the line. It's how you play your lure.

I mostly fish saltwater.
However toothy fish are toothy fish !
All wire to mono or flouro connections are the Allbright knot,
All braid to wire, mono & flouro are Allbright Knot
Wire to hook is the Figure 8 Knot,

Being a rod builder,
(I do not recommend the uni to uni knot for flouro or mono leaders) only for adding braid to braid.

The knot continually clicking through cheap guides will be eventually break them !!!
I've seen it happen more than enough.

EG: Any single rod (not including reel) worth less than $200ca has cheap guides.
An average quality rod blank is $80us, guides $30us, tip top $8us, real seat $10us, forgrip,reargrip & butt cap $15,
Now you need wrapping thread, epoxy, clear coat, etc, Or somebody to build it for you.
This being said,

I agree the lighter the tackle the more likely the hookup,
Just be patient & don't horse it in or you'll loose it

For toothy Spanish Mackeral (simuler to Pike)
I use 6', 40# to 60# flouro straight to lure.
Or, 6", 15# to 20# titanium With a 6', 20lb mono shock line.
This is for casting lures, eg: Kastmaster spoons, diamond jigs,

Live bait I'll use 20' 15lb mono (because mono floats) to 18" 12lb titanium, (Allbright Knot).
Use a "Figure 8 Knot" to tie hook to wire.

For big toothy Kingfish (King Mackerel, simpler to Musky)
I use 3', 40# to 60# titanium leader to front hook plus appropriate length titanium leader trailer hook
With a 10', 60lb shock line. "Downsize for live Pike bait"
This is for live baiting under a balloon or bobber,

For musky lures minumum 10' 60lb mono shock line, add 6' flours to a 6" titanium leader with Allbright Knot ahead of a ball bearing snap swival.
I like to use a 80lb ball bearing Swival with a 100lb Stainless steel split ring instead of a snap swival, (split ring won't open in a fight).

Mono vs Flouro & braid colour.

Mono has better memory it will stretch & come back almost to original length. (More fights)
Mono floats.
Great for top water plugs poppers & surface lures
Mono is very visible to fish.
Mono cuts easily, not abrasive resistant.

Fluorocarbon has no memory it will stretch out on you & not come back. (Less fights)
Flouro sinks.
Great for deep drop, jigs & yoyos
Flouro is near invisible to fish.
Very abrasive resistant great around shelled bottom or toothy fish

Braid colour.
The most visible colour at depth is black followed by white, blue, green, brown, yellow, red, pink
This means the least visible colour at depth & best choice for stealth is pink,red, then yellow
The most visible is black, white, blue, green
So much said for Berkly white invisabraid.

You could also try a 60lb twisted leader.
I use them on Tuna, Mahi Mahi, Yellow Tail & GT's
They are easy to make & you top them off with a 12" bite leader
Anything from 80lb to 150lb flouro or braided wire.
They are tied onto your braid using either a PR Knot (page ranking knot)
or a FG Knot

PS.
I can help you with these knots & how to make a twisted leader.
Dan