Float fishing lines...

Ontario Fishing Forums

Help Support Ontario Fishing Forums:

confidence is the most important thing but it doesnt mean jack without the knowledge to place that confidence in

i personally use 100 yards dacron braid 20lb then the rest mono. a good tough mono for the mainline. i opted for suffix siege 10lb mainline after having some raven line let me down a few times. never looked back.

as for leaders i stick to 8lb flouro for when the salmon are still around or 4-6lb flouro for steel, depending on how much i anticipated having to turn a fish out of hard cover. my favourite brand is drennan. 20$ for 50 meters but it never lets you down.(just be careful with it and maybe go a bit lighter as they rate it lower then it is on the package, or you could snap off above the swivel which is never good)

for the whirlpool 6lb for steel is reccomended as the current can add a lot of tension to the fight.

heaps of great advice here aside from any sour notes that came up. you are in good hands bud.

and do call fishheads. they helped me out more then i can mention when i was still green, and they will do the same for you.
 
@FISHHEADS I was on your site great site! I will be placing an order beginning of the week for some roe and line and a few swivels reasonable price ! cant wait to order it and get my stuff!!! Thanks in advance!
 
I fish the niagara. I use a 15 footer and a 14fter. I have 2 pins, one has: 20lb regular orange dacron backing - 12lb suffix promix - 8 or 10lb seaguar salmon and steelhead (yellow label). The other pin has the same backing - 10lb suffix promix or raven 10lb - 6-8lb leader.

The 14' has serious balls so I use it with the 12lb mainline for multiple spots on the niagara, but it shines when a fish gets in rapids. You dont need such a long rod, but at the very least get a 13' 4-8lb for the pool.

depends on what reel you got, but most factoy reels have a stupid deep spool which requires about 150-300yds of backing. I put enough backing on so that I only have to put on 100-150 yds of mono. Better for the environment and cheaper in the long run. I will never go below 6lb leader or .200 diameter on the niagara or you will probably not land any of the fish you hook. The leader lb choice depends on the current and water vis.

as for shotting pattern and leader setup, bulking about 6 AAA shot an inch above the swivel and then the rest a foot up has worked for me, but I've since been experimenting with other patterns. A good start is to get some beads 8 and 10mm this time of year and some size 4 or 6 hooks. Roe can work too. Leader length could be about 12" in mud or 36" in gin clear water, but I don't really like fishing clear water with 5 or 6 + ft of vis. Usually its about 26".
 
tossing iron said:
I get ya artimus. I get a kick out of these fishing shows. 10 minutes of fishing and 20 minutes of bombardment of over priced useless products. Give me a bag of shot a piece of sponge and eagle claw Lazer sharp #12s and I can land steel for a month. Nothing fancy needed.
a piece of sponge? What do you do with it?
 
Bio chemical filter pads. They are yellowish in colour , when cut in small row bag sizes the holes in the spunge look like a cluster of eggs.
 
Has to be high density sponge not porous.
Pull piece off size of single egg.
I carry half dozen different colours
If I spot one individual hooking up constantly I match the colour .
Just drift as you would anything else.
Some days that's all I use. Deadly at times.
 
tossing iron said:
Has to be high density sponge not porous.
Pull piece off size of single egg.
I carry half dozen different colours
If I spot one individual hooking up constantly I match the colour .
Just drift as you would anything else.
Some days that's all I use. Deadly at times.
just like tying egg flies, only easier, lol.
 
yea any good sites for shotting patterns? and where I put swivels and such? im totally new but everything is looking good so far and im understanding!
 
Joe, great to hear. As I said, send me an email or call if you need help with anything.Here is info you requested about shooting patterns, pulled off our links/how to page which has much other helpful information.


Shotting Patterns
Sure Shot Lead Split Shots available in sizes 7 sizes
Split shots are an essential tool when float fishing. By placing them in different positions on the line, the angler can greatly modify his bait presentation. Once a float fisherman understands how the different shotting patterns work, he can effectively cover nearly any spot in a river.
The ultimate goal in shotting is to achieve the most natural drift and bait presentation possible at the required depth. The key is to understand how the various shotting patterns affect the speed at which the bait will reach depth and how the bait will be affected by the current once it is at depth.
To fully appreciate the advantages of different shotting patterns, it is important to consider how current flows through rivers. A typical cross section of river will have a number of different currents flowing together. In general, the slowest current will be at the bottom and edges of the river and the fastest current will flow at the top and middle of the river. These variances in current speed can be seen when watching autumn leaves flow downstream. The leaves on the water’s surface travel much faster than those caught along the edges and in underwater currents.
Proper shotting allows the line cut through the faster surface current and the bait to drift at the speed of the slower bottom current, ahead of the split shot and float. Whenever shotting a float, it is essential to use good quality round shots to avoid line twist under the float.
As a final thought, try using a variety of shotting patterns for every pool or run. Each pattern presents the bait differently, allowing it to catch different underwater currents and cover different depths. Covering these different holding areas within a pool or run will maximize the catch out of any spot.

Standard Shotting Pattern
The shots are equally spaced on the line, from below the float down to the swivel and leader. Typically, the shots taper in size from the largest, directly below the float, to the smallest just above the swivel. When this set-up is running through the water, the bait will drift naturally ahead of the float and the line will curve smoothly upwards to the float.


Stacking Shots
Some anglers will substitute several smaller shots stacked side by side, rather than using a single larger split shot. For example using four No.4 shots to replace one AAA shot (4x.20g=.80g). This allows them more flexibility when sliding shots around from one set-up to another and tends to present set-ups with slightly more finesse. As an added bonus, anglers can get away with a smaller variety of shots in their vest. Stacked shot set-ups should be prepared in advance on a shot line to reduce downtime while fishing.

Tapered Shotting
This shotting pattern allows for a longer tapered presentation between the float and the bait. The spacing between the shots increase as the size of the shot decreases down the line. This pattern offers a very natural free-drifting presentation, but is relatively slow to sink down to depth. It is ideal for use in slow pools and clear water, but not recommended for use in fast or deep runs.


Accelerated Shotting
This is basically the inverse of the tapered shotting pattern. The shots are spaced closer together as they run down the line. The basic idea of presenting a tapered curving line towards the fish remains the same, but most of the weight is placed down near the leader. This pattern efficiently cuts through the surface current and pulls the bait down to depth quickly. Accelerated shotting is perfect for faster runs and deeper pools.


Bulk Shotting
Bulk shotting is the most effective way to cut through current and get the bait down to depth quickly. All the shots are stacked just above the leader with the last few shots spread out slightly to offer a more tapered presentation. This set-up may hinder the natural presentation of the bait, but is sometimes the only useful pattern in fast deep water.



Shallow Water Shotting
In shallow water where fish may be easily spooked, use this pattern with a small float and light lines. Load the shot directly below the float and space a few smaller shot along the line above the leader. This pattern is ideal for fishing shallow pools and runs where there isn’t enough depth for a useful length of line under the float.



Over-Shotting
When fishing in very fast water, over-shotting is sometimes the only way to break through the rushing surface water and still present the bait at a natural speed. This set-up is the same as bulk shotting, but extra shots are added to the line (as much as twice the regular carrying capacity of the float can be used). The float will sink completely under the weight of the shots. Hold the float back firmly so that the force of the current pushes the float to the surface. Then allow the float to trot downstream at a pace that keeps it kiting just on the surface. By adjusting the length of the line under the float and the amount of weight, the bait can be run at a fairly slow pace through fast runs, allowing it to catch slower underwater currents. Because there is no slack line between the float and rod tip, strikes will register directly on the rod.

Bottom Bouncing
In very large and deep rivers, bulk shotting and overshotting may still not be enough to hold the bait down to the bottom. By using a three way swivel with first eye tied to a short leader down to a pencil weight, the second eye running the main leader to the hook and the third eye is attached to the main line up to the float. This rigging pattern is used extensively in the Pacific Northwest.
 
artimus001 said:
how about helping the guy out with an answer (and for all the other noobs), instead of just spamming the site?

Sometimes things are easier to explain in person, and rather than type out a lengthy wall of text that someone may or may not have time to read. but because YOU wanted a different response, you took it on yourself to call the guy out, and then accuse him of spamming??? seriously, Fishheads has been here way longer than I have, and has been one of the best suppliers to fisherman on this site for many years.

and yes, I read your post where you thanked him for the lengthy wall of text he had to take time out his work day to write up, and you also didn't apologize to him for the spam accusation
 
So rehashing what's already blown over is your solution.
Absolutely no offense intended to fish heads business.
But I can't help but believe legalizing selling roe is just asking for poaching.
IMO if there's a buck to be made people will do anything.
 
tossing iron said:
So rehashing what's already blown over is your solution.
Absolutely no offense intended to fish heads business.
But I can't help but believe legalizing selling roe is just asking for poaching.
IMO if there's a buck to be made people will do anything.
What does this have to do with float fishing lines? Cmon guys lets keep this forum informative and fun
 
4645bd49_popcorn-blank.gif
 
FF brought up fish heads.
I'm just stating the obvious.
It's like putting a bounty on roe.
 
tossing iron said:
FF brought up fish heads.
I'm just stating the obvious.
It's like putting a bounty on roe.
except, fishheads uses farmed roe from a fish farm, not wild. the farm will keep enough eggs to fertilize and raise fish from to support their stocked ponds,
fishheads has proof of origination via receipts from the farm
 
As I stated earlier . No offense intended
to fish heads business. Just Google salmon roe for sale and literally thousands of sites appear. There is absolutely no need to sell roe . And no need to even use roe for fishing. We are decades past that . All its doing is encouraging port hope horror story.
 
You're wasting everyone's time. Those guys in port hope or wherever aren't selling it for bait. Most Steelheaders keep only a couple fish for eggs and it lasts all year. Roe ban won't stop the slaughter. It's for food dingus.
12171703_10156180404260298_1592485027_o.jpg


Stop wasting our time
 
FrequentFlyer said:
Sometimes things are easier to explain in person, and rather than type out a lengthy wall of text that someone may or may not have time to read. but because YOU wanted a different response, you took it on yourself to call the guy out, and then accuse him of spamming??? seriously, Fishheads has been here way longer than I have, and has been one of the best suppliers to fisherman on this site for many years.

and yes, I read your post where you thanked him for the lengthy wall of text he had to take time out his work day to write up, and you also didn't apologize to him for the spam accusation
you seem to be the one continuing with this, "not getting the response desired" affect, lol.


typing out walls of text to answer questions is the whole point of a forum. whether the OP reads it is moot. it is now there for all to read. asking and answering the same questions season in and season out, is what helps keeps a forum alive.

if Fishhead had originally sent the O/P a PM with a phone # wouldn't have been spam. pretty simple, imo. even the cut and paste that was done from the Fishhead site was useful (that is what, 4-5 mouse clicks?)

i would suggest that you don't hold your breath waiting for an apology for my original thought.

he's your buddy we get it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top