My First CP, any advice?

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I switched to nanofil and the lack of memory is great for a side caster like myself. It casts really well with no weight. If you are going to use a superline like nanofil or fireline crystal, add some 12lbs+ mono backing on top of your dacron backing since the spools are only 150 yards.
 
As mentioned before dacron comes in diff colours.
Wind it on with some tension too tight will warp your spool. Some filler mono cheap stuff than your main line
good luck
 
FG im gonna assume you want pink line :mrgreen: i have the 12lb raven on mine, and its great, little stretch and little memory it almost matches your reel colour too
 
Go with raven as everyone says. helps you practice casting with minimal bird nesting...I know you will keep at it. Once you master the cast...you can spool it with whatever you want. HI vis or not it's your personal choice...like the color pink. Good luck and enjoy that reel. A really good real for the price. Now go out there and be somebody!
 
Since everyone is giving advice...
I have an Islander too. First thing, make sure you have lots of backing. If you have a knowledgeable fishing store "guy" ( and not all of them are), take it in and have the backing and mono wound on. You never have to replace the backing, only the mono. You only need 100 yards or so of mono, but it should fill the spool within a quarter inch or so of the rim. Islander spools are pretty deep, so you will need a decent amount of backing. Experienced line fillers usually get it right.
Learn the Wallis cast (not that hard) and that will reduce line twist. A slip float or swivels placed above and below a fixed float will also reduce twist.
The Islander is a workhorse, probably a lot more forgiving than other reels. Take a nickel with you when you are fishing; it's all you need to disassemble the reel stream side if you happen to get some grit/ excess water in the spool. Take it apart, give it a wipe and reassemble ( do this on shore!).
Oh, and as for the minute and a half spin, it's plenty. Spin time really is of no relevance on the river. You want easy start up; the float will do the rest. My Islander has never disappointed me.
 
balt0 said:
I switched to nanofil and the lack of memory is great for a side caster like myself. It casts really well with no weight. If you are going to use a superline like nanofil or fireline crystal, add some 12lbs+ mono backing on top of your dacron backing since the spools are only 150 yards.
memory isnt the issue with side casting, its the line twist. no line is immune to it ;)

shawarma had it straight except id get a lighter mainline
my rig is 150 yards dacron 20lb braid backing>8lb mono mainline>4-6lb flouro leader(depending on conditions)

have fun with it. and dont get discouraged by the casting. ymmv but it can be frustrating at first :)
 
As others have said start with 200 yds of dacron backing. It is lighter than mono thus making your reel lighter. Many anglers like myself use the side cast instead of the Wallis cast and compensate for line twist by placing a swivel above your float or as I prefer use a slip float with beads and float stops above and below the float. Islander reels IMO are hard to learn to Wallis cast on so I'd encourage you to side cast. Any mono will do to fill your reel. I use fireline crystal on one ,I use Ande tournament on one and Raven on another. I prefer 10 lb. testin mono ,but I use 8 or 6 lb. when it comes to fireline. If you have a kite store near you you can use kite string as backing. Start up is more important than spin time with centre pins. Reels with longer spin times are better for Wallis casting IMO. Islanders come from the West coast where they employ the BC cast. Enjoy your reel and don't let yourself become discouraged when you use it. Time is your friend.
 
FG, put 200 yards of dacron on that thing (orange looks pretty sick IMO) and then I'd suggest to fill it with 8lb raven mainline. I go with the clear colour (low vis) this way I don't have to run a shot line. Don't fill the reel all the way, I keep the line at least 1/4 inch from the edge of the spool. Get some seaguar or drennan fluro (4lb drenn is the same as 6lb seauguar btw), get an assortment of shots, swivels, raven wide gaps #10 and 12. Some beads in assortment of colours and sizes and bead pegs and you're good to go.
 
Catfish said:
FG, put 200 yards of dacron on that thing (orange looks pretty sick IMO) and then I'd suggest to fill it with 8lb raven mainline. I go with the clear colour (low vis) this way I don't have to run a shot line. Don't fill the reel all the way, I keep the line at least 1/4 inch from the edge of the spool. Get some seaguar or drennan fluro (4lb drenn is the same as 6lb seauguar btw), get an assortment of shots, swivels, raven wide gaps #10 and 12. Some beads in assortment of colours and sizes and bead pegs and you're good to go.
staffman said:
As others have said start with 200 yds of dacron backing. It is lighter than mono thus making your reel lighter. Many anglers like myself use the side cast instead of the Wallis cast and compensate for line twist by placing a swivel above your float or as I prefer use a slip float with beads and float stops above and below the float. Islander reels IMO are hard to learn to Wallis cast on so I'd encourage you to side cast. Any mono will do to fill your reel. I use fireline crystal on one ,I use Ande tournament on one and Raven on another. I prefer 10 lb. testin mono ,but I use 8 or 6 lb. when it comes to fireline. If you have a kite store near you you can use kite string as backing. Start up is more important than spin time with centre pins. Reels with longer spin times are better for Wallis casting IMO. Islanders come from the West coast where they employ the BC cast. Enjoy your reel and don't let yourself become discouraged when you use it. Time is your friend.
If I have hi vis line, I need a shot line? What is that
 
A line for weights... the idea is that because the line is colored you may want to remove most of the colored mainline out of the water. So between your leader line and your main colored line you have another line... your shot line. That means two swivels ;)
 
colored line looks cool and fancy but it likely spooks fish. You can run longer leads but then your just throwing away your money. This is why most anglers run shot line if they use high vis line. For shot line you can run anything but it should be smaller diameter line then your main line. Lotta anglers run maxima ultragreen as their shot line.
 
troutddicted said:
A line for weights... the idea is that because the line is colored you may want to remove most of the colored mainline out of the water. So between your leader line and your main colored line you have another line... your shot line. That means two swivels ;)
Thank you, Sensei
 
Majstor said:
colored line looks cool and fancy but it likely spooks fish. You can run longer leads but then your just throwing away your money. This is why most anglers run shot line if they use high vis line. For shot line you can run anything but it should be smaller diameter line then your main line. Lotta anglers run maxima ultragreen as their shot line.
x2 on the ultragreen. Back when I used coloured mainline I would do this when the water was clear. When the water was dirty I didn't care for the shotline and still managed to hook a lot of fish. Just make sure the breaking point of the shot line is higher than the leader you use or you'll be breaking off everything under your float lol.

Nice pin btw.
 
troutddicted said:
A line for weights... the idea is that because the line is colored you may want to remove most of the colored mainline out of the water. So between your leader line and your main colored line you have another line... your shot line. That means two swivels ;)
or use a long leader where you can put your shots(meaning no shotline) this works better using a mono leader.
 
CJR said:
x2 on the ultragreen. Back when I used coloured mainline I would do this when the water was clear. When the water was dirty I didn't care for the shotline and still managed to hook a lot of fish. Just make sure the breaking point of the shot line is higher than the leader you use or you'll be breaking off everything under your float lol.

Nice pin btw.

I use hi vis and I just started using a shot line last week.

I noticed that it help me drift better and I hook up a lot more compared to when I was just using a longer leader.

And when I snag, I only loose my short leader and I just tie a new one on with my hook.
 
PUMP KNOWS said:
I use hi vis and I just started using a shot line last week.

I noticed that it help me drift better and I hook up a lot more compared to when I was just using a longer leader.

And when I snag, I only loose my short leader and I just tie a new one on with my hook.
How long is your shot line pump?
 
Paul1913 said:
How long is your shot line pump?
Back when I fished a Shot line I always made it 1.5 times the depth I thought I would need. This way you can fish shallow and deep with no issues, I used a surgeons know when connected my main and shot (a swivel would sink and mess up your drift)
 
IR4J said:
Back when I fished a Shot line I always made it 1.5 times the depth I thought I would need. This way you can fish shallow and deep with no issues, I used a surgeons know when connected my main and shot (a swivel would sink and mess up your drift)
same...always knot my shotlines. no need for extra swivel unless you use those really small swivel with diamond eye...
 
I use the swivel like a split shot, it helps me to present the bait to the fish.

With long leaders, I noticed most of the time my float would move faster then my bait.

Lots of trial and error, do what works for you.
 

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