43yr old noob! Help!

[Andrew D]

I have to say, that the first video Manitoubass2 provided for me was very helpful, it was clear, strait forward and a good video for "noobs" like me.
Also the link to the knots is Very helpful to me.




But i have another question what is the best kind of line for a new guy like me? I currently bought berkley xl mono 8 pound, but see there are a few variations in the "type" of material. Also how exactly does line "change" the "feel" of the rod set up?

So what is he best?



Thanks.

 

[manitoubass2]

I have to say, that the first video Manitoubass2 provided for me was very helpful, it was clear, strait forward and a good video for "noobs" like me.
Also the link to the knots is Very helpful to me.




But i have another question what is the best kind of line for a new guy like me? I currently bought berkley xl mono 8 pound, but see there are a few variations in the "type" of material. Also how exactly does line "change" the "feel" of the rod set up?

So what is he best?



Thanks.

I'm always glad to help!

Xl 8lb is very good mono, great place to start.

But since your going to be learning/experimenting, and fishing for multi species, I'd also have...

10-15lb Suffix 832 braid (color is up to you and the type of fishing) or PowerPro of the same strength.

and Some Trilene fluorocarbon for leaders where necessary.

With braid, you get alot more sensitivity, and you can FEEL the bottom and the structure much better(because of the zero stretch, every knick translates through the line and up the rod). It's also zero stretch, and has more pulling power than mono. Braid isn't as good as mono for trolling though, thats where the stretch actually helps on the hook set. Braid is also alot more abrasion resistant then mono (but less so than fluoro). These two braids are very managable as well, and very easy to work with.

The fluoro comes into play when fishing for big pike/musky, where really clear water comes into play, or when you want a crank to get deeper.

Braid kinda floats, and doesn't get down very quickly, fluoro is near invisible in the water and get down very fast, and is very abrasion resistant, and mono is kinda in between.

The one thing mono does that the other two don't is stretch. And sometimes that stretch is needed.

Hope this helps, if you have any other questions, fire them off.

 

[Porter86]

Thank bud, even for me that was very helpful. I didnt know that about the 3 of them, and now I do!!

 

[GBW]

If you want to try a very good braid that goes un-noticed (by anglers) then try the spider-wire stealth. I have been using it since it came out and I have tried others only to go back to it.

If you are going to stick with mono for now during the learning process then one bit of advise I can offer to help with line twist is this. Soak the whole spool (out of the box however ) in a bowl of very warm water for 5 to 10 min before you spool it on. The heat will try and remove all or as much memory as it can because you have NO clue how long that line has been sitting on the store shelf and then the depot before it hit's a store... Hence why there are so many way's to spool on line and line stations out there.

 

[Spinninreel]

If you want to try a very good braid that goes un-noticed (by anglers) then try the spider-wire stealth. I have been using it since it came out and I have tried others only to go back to it.

If you are going to stick with mono for now during the learning process then one bit of advise I can offer to help with line twist is this. Soak the whole spool (out of the box however ) in a bowl of very warm water for 5 to 10 min before you spool it on. The heat will try and remove all or as much memory as it can because you have NO clue how long that line has been sitting on the store shelf and then the depot before it hit's a store... Hence why there are so many way's to spool on line and line stations out there.

I wonder if you could just put the line on the spinning reel spool and then take the spool and soak it in warm water?

 

[GBW]

I wonder if you could just put the line on the spinning reel spool and then take the spool and soak it in warm water?

That does work too but, then you need to make sure you don't need to grease or maintain the reel. and as the OP asked, it's a Noob thing so for him I would say don't do that If you don't heat the spool and then can get out on the boat and troll as much line as you can with a surface plug this also helps remove line twist. Me, I would rather warm up the line before it gets on my reel.

 

[Meanderer]

Do you have a point of view on copolymer line? I use GAMMA but can't really make a comparison.

 

[Andrew D]

WOW thanks a ton everyone, great info and a lot to consider.

Soaking the line never sent that or heard about it until just now! Great help eveyone. I can see that coming to this froum for guidance was a good choice.

Now a question about leaders..... is it better to buy manufactured ones or to make your own? And would making my own be to "difficult" for a "noob" ?

Please forgive me for what must seem like basic knowledge but i have no experience at all, and just want to be sure when i go out that it will be a enjoyable sport for me.

 

[manitoubass2]

Do you have a point of view on copolymer line? I use GAMMA but can't really make a comparison.

Copolymer lines differ alot from brand to brand. Typically, they are a mono with a coating (on the inside or outside) of fluorocarbon, or some companies claim to have fused them into one material. The main reasons for this are to increase abrasion resistance, to make the line sink faster and to lesson the stretch of mono.

That being said, alot of copolymers are not supple, there harder to manage and have horrible memory.

Good thing you got Gamma though, cause I think thats the best I've used up until I recently tried Berkley XL Armor coated.

I'm not much of a fan though either way, I don't fish with them often. I do like them used vertically in rocks though.

These are great options however for tying your own spinner rigs or Lindy rigs (keep the weight lower though, so you can tie them properly, ie 12lb test)

 

[manitoubass2]

WOW thanks a ton everyone, great info and a lot to consider.

Soaking the line never sent that or heard about it until just now! Great help eveyone. I can see that coming to this froum for guidance was a good choice.

Now a question about leaders..... is it better to buy manufactured ones or to make your own? And would making my own be to "difficult" for a "noob" ?

Please forgive me for what must seem like basic knowledge but i have no experience at all, and just want to be sure when i go out that it will be a enjoyable sport for me.

That really depends on what your fishing, where your fishing, what lures your fishing and how often your fishing like this, lol.

I make some leaders myself, but I always keep some store bought wire leaders too.

Wire leaders are def. strong, and convenient.

But when you make them, you have much more say in how its made, what line you use, what length, the quality of components used etc.

And don't worry about asking all the "noob" questions, lol, nobody was born a professional angler. We all learn, all the time. Thats part of what keeps fishing fun and exciting!

 

[GBW]

Copolymer lines differ alot from brand to brand. Typically, they are a mono with a coating (on the inside or outside) of fluorocarbon, or some companies claim to have fused them into one material. The main reasons for this are to increase abrasion resistance, to make the line sink faster and to lesson the stretch of mono.

That being said, alot of copolymers are not supple, there harder to manage and have horrible memory.

Good thing you got Gamma though, cause I think thats the best I've used up until I recently tried Berkley XL Armor coated.

I'm not much of a fan though either way, I don't fish with them often. I do like them used vertically in rocks though.

These are great options however for tying your own spinner rigs or Lindy rigs (keep the weight lower though, so you can tie them properly, ie 12lb test)

great answer to his Q.

if you like the feel of mono and are considering making a change then I would look to get the Tuf-Line DuraCast line. It's a braid with a coating on it to feel just like mono. I used it just to try it ice fishing this past season in hopes of the coating stoping the line from ice build up and it worked great. The normal line and the pack that says "ice line" are the same line so don't be fooled. I'm going to spoll a spinning combo up with some today because I can't wait to trying it on the open water.

 

[GBW]

Now a question about leaders..... is it better to buy manufactured ones or to make your own? And would making my own be to "difficult" for a "noob" ?

both work but when you buy the metal ones from a store go with a better brand as they last longer and less likely to get a kink.
to make you own there is a crimper kit you can get to start off with. then after you know what comes in the kit you can get those parts other places. best bet to make your own if an 80 or 100LB floro line and make sure that the snap you buy to use on them can also hold the same LB or more.

 

[manitoubass2]

great answer to his Q.

if you like the feel of mono and are considering making a change then I would look to get the Tuf-Line DuraCast line. It's a braid with a coating on it to feel just like mono. I used it just to try it ice fishing this past season in hopes of the coating stoping the line from ice build up and it worked great. The normal line and the pack that says "ice line" are the same line so don't be fooled. I'm going to spoll a spinning combo up with some today because I can't wait to trying it on the open water.

I've got some Duracast set up right now, it's a keeper. I too used it this past ice season, and it was about as perfect an ice line I've ever used. But casting, it's def. up to the challenge, cast very well.

Last year I got really comfy with Suffix 832, in the 15-20lb sizes. But there was other lines I wanted to try this season out of curiousity.

Tuf-Line Duracast , Powerpro Superslick, Suffix 832 ghost, and some more tinkering with Nanofil.

I must say, I'm very impressed with all of them. None really have downfalls that are noticeable (unless you knit picking), with the exception of Nanofil.

 

[GBW]

last year I didn't fall into the hype of the Suffix 832 line (but they go make a great floro line). I'm not interested in the new power pro super slick either. I did however get some spools of nanofil and I must say I do like it. As long as you tie the knot they say to use and wet the line with spit before you sinch it up, not a problem yet for me on a spinning combo. It also was decent as an ice line this past winter. My go to line is still Spider-Wire Stealth in green moss and it has been for years!

 

[manitoubass2]

last year I didn't fall into the hype of the Suffix 832 line (but they go make a great floro line). I'm not interested in the new power pro super slick either. I did however get some spools of nanofil and I must say I do like it. As long as you tie the knot they say to use and wet the line with spit before you sinch it up, not a problem yet for me on a spinning combo. It also was decent as an ice line this past winter. My go to line is still Spider-Wire Stealth in green moss and it has been for years!

Just goes to show how preference effects your decisions, lol. I really like 832, mainly because it suites more of my needs than any other line. So far I'd say duracast is easily as good though, and if you factor in ice fishing, even better.

Powerpro superslick could come or go, I still like the original though.

I used Nanofil this past ice season too, and it's a very good option. Originally, I had some knot issues that were easily overcome. I actually made my own knot since then that I find works better. I will say the line is unmatched for casting, it's hard to describe, a person just has to try it and see what it's like. After casting Nanofil, you'll quickly realize how much other lines lack in castability, lol. The abrasion is an issue for me though, I find it nicks up quickly and I've lost a few fish because of it. No big deal though as long as you check it often. I wouldn't fish heavy rocks with it though. Works awesome on casting small cranks too, gets them down very good.

And spiderwire is a good braid. I'd probably still have some if I didn't fish from shore as often as I do

 

[GBW]

then I need to get up there fishing with you then this week, LOL!

Nanofil does cast very far on a spinning reel and I'm happy the way it holds up to weed and how thin it is. Can't wait to use the DuraCast TuffLine though...

 

[Andrew D]

Hey i was wondering if you guys can inform me on a certain "thing" I see that there is a recommended line weight as well as lure weight for some rod and reel combos. Now would i be correct in thinking that when buying lure...etc... You should stay within these numbers? If you went "outside" these numbers what difference would it make?

Thanks again

 

[manitoubass2]

then I need to get up there fishing with you then this week, LOL!

Nanofil does cast very far on a spinning reel and I'm happy the way it holds up to weed and how thin it is. Can't wait to use the DuraCast TuffLine though...

Sure, head up! haha

You'll really like the duracast, its great line

 

[Spinninreel]

My personal preference is to use either Seaguar floro if I want to get the bait deep and in clear water, and Power pro for the other stuff.

 

[manitoubass2]

Hey i was wondering if you guys can inform me on a certain "thing" I see that there is a recommended line weight as well as lure weight for some rod and reel combos. Now would i be correct in thinking that when buying lure...etc... You should stay within these numbers? If you went "outside" these numbers what difference would it make?

Thanks again

Rods are designed for specific techniques and applications, and keep in mind the weight/line recommendations are to make the rod do what it is built to do.

That when the rod ratings come into play etc. Different rod lengths, materials, flex, point of flexion etc all play a role in how the rod was built/designed, and how it should be used.

A good example would be a 5'6" ultra lite crappie rod. Their designed to flex all the way to the reel seat almost, and are usually rated for 2-6lb line. Now obviously you can cast a 1oz jig with it, but will it cast far, handle smooth, offer sensitivity and handle that 43" pike at the end of the line? Not only that but if it's spooled with 30lb braid, the rod would brake before the line gave way, lol.

The best thing to due IMO for someone just getting into angling, would be to first look at what you want to target and where/how. Then develope a plan to get something that covers all those areas efficiently. Then, as you gain experience and learn what lures you like, how you fish, and things like that, then you can look at expanding and kinda starting over again to become a more well rounded angler.

If you like walleye and bass ( just for example), a 6'6" medium fast would be a good start. Enough backbone to fight scrappy fish or pull them from wood/weeds, sensitive enough to jig and feel bottom, and the tick tick or mush mouth walleye bites, long enough to give the angler leverage and would handle well with lures from say, 1/4oz to 1/2 oz. which would handle most baits for those fish. You could toss spoons for pike, pull stick baits and cranks, jig, burn spinnerbaits, lindy rig, drop shot basically cover alot of types of fishing.

I'm glad you asked a question though, cause I was about to apologize for derailing your thread, lol. Thanks for getting it back on track!